INGREDIENT INFORMATION

with CLINICAL STUDIES or SUPPORTING INFO.

 

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Alfalfa Extract

Algin

Allantoin

Almond Oil (Sweet)

Aloe Vera (Organic)

Amaranth Oil

Apple Pectin

Avocado Oil

Bamboo Beads

Beeswax (Un-Refined)

Bergamot Oil

Bilberry Extract

Black Kohosh

Bladderwrack Extract

Borax

Bromalain Extract

Burdock  Extract

Butchers Broom Extract

Butylene Glycol

Calendula Extract

Camellia Oil

Camphor Oil

Carbomer

Carrot Seed Oil

Castille Flake Soap

Castor Oil

Cetearyl Alcohol

Chamomile Flower Extract

Chamomile Oil

Chaparrel Extract

CINNAMON

Clary Sage Oil

Clove Oil

Coconut Oil

Colloidal Silver

Comfrey Extract

Distilled WATER

DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol)

Echinecea  Extract

Ethyl Alcohol,

Eucalyptus Oil

Flax Meal

Franckinscense Oil

Geranium Oil

Germall Plus Preservative*  *Diazolidinyl Urea & Idopropynl Butylcarbamate

Glucosamine HCL

Glyceryl Oleate

Glyceryl Stearate

Gotu Kola

Grapeseed Extract

Grapeseed Oil

Great Salt Lake SALT

Green Tea 

Green Tea Extract

Green Tea Herbal Extract

Guar Gum

Honey

Horse Chestnut Extract

Hyaluronic Acid

Hydr55  Super Anti-Oxidant water

HydroxyetyhylCellulose

Idebenone

Irish Moss Extract

Iron Oxide

Jasmine Oil

Jojoba Beads

Jojoba Ester

Jojoba Oil (Golden)

Juniper Berry Oil

Lavender Flower Extract

Lavender Oil

Lecithin

Lemon Oil

Lemon Powder

Lemon Verbana Oil

Lemongrass Oil

Licorice Root Extract

Liquid Glycerin Soap

Mandarin Oil

Menthol

MSM (Methylsulfonylmethane)

Myristyl Myristate

N-Aceytle Glucosamine

Neroli Oil

Niacinimide

Oat Flour

Oatmeal

Olive Oil

OLIVOIL Vegetable Emulsifier (Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Oleate, Glyceryl Stearate and Potassium Hydroxyde)

Orange Oil (Sweet)

Palmarosa Oil

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Panthenol

Papain Extract

Patchouli Oil

Peppermint Oil

Pine Oil

Polysorbate 20

Potassium Hydroxyde

Progestorone (Plant Derived)

Purified Water

Pycnogenol

Red Clover Extract

Redmond Clay

Redmond Sea Salt

Rosehip Oil

Rosemary  Extract

Rosemary Herbal Extract

Rosemary Oil

Rosemary Oleo Resin

Rosewater

Safflower Oil (Organic)

Salicylic Acid

Sandalwood Oil,

Sanguina Oil

Shea Butter (Refined)

Shea Butter (Un-Refined West African)

Silica

Silk Peptide

Silk Protein.

SNAP-8 Aceytl Octapeptide-3

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Sodium Hyaluronate

Soy Lecithin

Spearmint Oil

Sunflower Oil

SYNCOLL Palmytoyl Tripeptide-5

Tangerine Oil

Tea Tree Oil

Thyme Oil

Titanium Dioxide

Triethenalomine

Uva Ursi Extract

Valerian Root Extract

Vanilla Extract

Vegetable Glycerin

Virgin Olive oil

Vitamin A (Retinol Palmitate)

Vitamin B3 (Niacinimide)

Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid),

Vitamin C (Ascorbyl Palmitate)

Vitamin E Oil

Walnut Shell Grit

WATER

Wheat Germ Oil

White Thyme Oil

White Willow Bark Extract

Wintergreen Oil

Witch Hazel

Xanthan Gum

Ylang Ylang Oil

Zinc Oxide

 

ingredients

WITH clinical studies or SUPPORTING INFO

 

agireline peptide*-ARGIRELINE®

 (Acetyl Hexapeptide-3)

Argireline: Inhibits Wrinkle Formation

Argireline is a unique new peptide that both reduces the degree of existing facial wrinkles and has been demonstrated effective

against their development. It_s been shown to inhibit the formation of the SNARE complex as well as catecholamine release.

These inhibitions confer anti-aging activity on Argireline; they closely relate to the basic biochemical mechanisms of wrinkle formation.

Controlled studies have also demonstrated that facial wrinkle depth can be reduced, especially in the forehead and around the eyes, and that Argireline can prevent apparent facial skin aging. Skin topographic analysis performed on healthy female volunteers confirmed the validation of the proposed biochemical mechanism of action.

Causes of Facial Wrinkling

Facial wrinkling associated with aging is caused – and exacerbated – by many factors. Beyond the physiological pathways,molecular mechanisms involved in facial aging include changes in collagen conformation, elastin polypeptide degradation, and problems of the skin’s lipid matrix. Recent studies clearly establish that these changes can be significantly reduced by inhibiting SNARE complex formation, a core of membrane proteins that mediate neuronal exocytosis. Their inhibition by short synthetic peptides can decrease facial wrinkle formation, and thereby the appearance of aging. The overproduction and release of catecholamines also encourages the formation of wrinkles and fine lines.

The Technology

Argireline_s specific sequence was shown to inhibit the SNARE complex formation and catecholamine release. Once identified, it was synthesized by solid phase peptide synthesis and then purified and characterized.

Argireline solution was found to inhibit vesicle docking by preventing formation of the essential ternary SNARE Complex. Inhibition of noradrenaline and adrenaline release was also demonstrated in a second in vitro study. In vivo tests further demonstrated the benefits of Argireline solution. Facial topography analysis (for measuring the effectiveness of an O/W emulsion containing 10% Argireline solution) was performed using silicon replicas from around the eyes at 0, 15 and 30 days of a twice-a-day treatment regimen. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser scanning microscopy. It was observed that the severity of wrinkles around the eyes decreased up to 17% after 15 days of treatment and up to 27% after 30 days of treatment, substantiating the proposed biochemical mechanism hypothesis.

Argireline Efficacy Testing

The anti-wrinkle effect of Argireline solution was ascertained in two different in vitro tests directly related to the formation of wrinkles in the epidermis as well as a separate in vivo test performed on healthy human volunteers.

IN VITRO TESTING

SNARE complex modulation in chromaffin cells

This test evaluates inhibition of the SNARE complex formed by peptides from the N-terminus of SNAP-25 (synaptosome-associated protein of 25kDa). Argireline solution modulates SNARE complex formation at concentrations in the mM range (see Fig. 1).

Chromaffin cells were prepared and further separated from erythrocytes and other impurities by centrifugation gradient. Cells were maintained in monolayer cultures. The ternary SNARE complex was precipitated and incubated with Argireline and other related peptides, or without them (as a control). Immunocomplexes were analyzed under non-reducing conditions and immunoblotted with an anti-syntaxin mAb.

Argireline proved to modulate vesicle docking by attenuating the formation of the essential ternary SNARE complex.

Modulation of catecholamine release in chromaffin cells

Inhibition of the release of catecholamines was determined by monitoring the neurotransmitters adrenaline and noradrenaline. Chromaffin cells were incubated with tritiated noradrenaline/adrenaline and Argireline. The release of catecholamines, as well as the total cell content, was determined by liquid scintillation counting. The significant modulation of both neurotransmitters at nM concentrations of Argireline solution is a clear indicator of the potent anti-wrinkle activity of this hexapeptide (see Fig. 2).

IN VIVO TESTING

Determination of efficacy against facial wrinkling

An independent study of the effect of Argireline solution on the elasticity of the skin around the eyes was performed. Using silicone facial replicas and confocal microscopic analysis, the researchers measured changes in the depth of skin wrinkling.

The skin replicas below (see Figs. 3, 4) show the improvement in facial smoothness at 15 and 30 days post-Argireline treatment, compared with the results obtained without the incorporation of Argireline solution into the test cream. The researchers concluded that Argireline solution reduced the depth of wrinkles up to 17% after 15 days and 27% following 30 days of treatment.

Clinical study CT92 research project 5/2001

 

SNAP 8, Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (a wrinkle reducing Peptide tradE name SNAP-8*)

Anti-wrinkle test on healthy volunteers

Skin topography analysis for measuring the effectiveness of an cream containing 10% of SNAP-8 Solution were performed obtaining silicon imprints from around the eyes from 17 healthy women volunteers. Silicon imprints were obtained pre-test and after 28 days of twice a day applications. Analyses of the imprints were performed by confocal laser scanning microscopy to assess the evolution of the skin surface before and after the treatment. Skin topography images from the three dimensional reconstruction of optical sections are shown in Fig 3. It can be observed that the depth of the wrinkle has significantly decreased after 28 days of treatment which confirms the validation of the biochemical mechanism hypothesis.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. Blanes-Mira, C., Ibáñez, C., Fernández-Ballester, G., Planells-Cases, R., Pérez-Payá, E. and Ferrer-Montiel, A. (2001) Thermal stabilization of the catalytic domain of botulinum neurotoxin E by phosphorylation of a single tyrosine residue. Biochemistry, 40, 7, 2234-2242.

2. Ferrer-Montiel, A., Canaves, J.M., DasGupta, B.R., Wilson, M.C., and Montal M. (1996). Tyrosine phosphorylation modulates the activityof clostridial neurotoxins. J. Biol. Chem. 271, 31, 18322-18325.

3. Gutierrez, L.M., Viniegra, S., Rueda, J., Ferrer-Montiel, A., Canaves, J.M. and Montal, M (1997) A peptide that mimics the C-terminal séquense of SNAP-25 inhibits secretory vesicle docking in chromaffin cells. J. Biol. Chem 272, 5, 2634-2639.

4. Ferrer-Montiel, A., Gutiérrez, L.M., Apland, J. Canaves, J.M., Gil, A., Viniegra, S., Biser,  J.A., Adler, M. and Montal, M. (1998) The 26-mer peptide released from SNAP-25 cleavage by botulinum neurotoxin E inhibits vesicle docking. FEBS Letters 435, 84-88. 

 

 

 

 

ALA (ALPHA LYPOIC ACID)- Alpha Lipoic Acid Benefits and Information

Alpha-lipoic acid (ALA), also known as lipoic acid (or thioctic acid), is a sulfur-containing fatty acid found inside every cell of the human body. The main function of alpha-lipoic acid is to generate the energy required to keep living organisms alive and functioning. Lipoic acid plays a key role in a variety vital energy-producing reactions in the body that turn glucose (blood sugar) into energy.

Alpha-lipoic acid is a potent biological antioxidant that has been shown to slow the oxidative damage in cells, and in many cases stabilize or even reverse cell damage. Alpha-lipoic acid is so effective as an anti-oxidant because it works on both water and fat-soluble free radicals that cause oxidation and cell damage in the body. Notwithstanding it popularity, the exact mechanism responsible for the medicinal affects of alpha-lipoic acid is still not fully understood.

Some research suggests that certain nerve diseases may occur as a result of free radical damage. Since alpha-lipoic acid can reach all parts of a nerve cell it can potentially protect nerve cells against such damage. This is the rationale behind studies on the potential benefits of alpha-lipoic acid for diabetic neuropathy.

Some in the scientific community believe that alpha-lipoic acid can actually reverse the damage in aging cells of the brain. Alpha lipoic acid has also been used both in oral and topical forms as a way for keeping skin healthy and young in appearance
 

Supporting Literature

Kagan V, Khan S, Swanson C, et al. Antioxidant action of thioctic acid and dihydrolipoic acid. Free Radic Biol Med 1990;9S:15.
Kagan VE, Shvedova A, Serbinova E, et al. Dihydrolipoic acid-a universal antioxidant both in the membrane and in the aqueous phase. Reduction of peroxyl, ascorbyl, and chromanoxyl radicals. Biochem Pharmacol. 1992;44:1637-1649.
Matsugo S, Yan LJ, Han D, et al. Elucidation of antioxidant activity of alpha-lipoic acid toward hydroxyl radical. Biochem Biophys Res Commun. 1995;208:161-167.
Ziegler D, Gries FA. Alpha-lipoic acid in the treatment of diabetic peripheral and cardiac autonomic neuropathy. Diabetes. 1997;46(suppl 2):S62-S66.
Ziegler D, Hanefeld M, Ruhnau KJ, et al. Treatment of symptomatic diabetic polyneuropathy with the antioxidant alpha-lipoic acid: a 7-month multicenter randomized controlled trial (ALADIN III Study). ALADIN III Study Group. Diabetes Care. 1999;22:1296-1301.

 

ALFALFA (HERB)- Can be an antioxidant in skin-care products (Source: Journal of Agricultural Food Chemistry, January 2001, pages 308–314).

 

allantoin- Manufacturers cite several beneficial effects for allantoin as an active ingredient in over-the-counter cosmetics: a moisturizing and keratolytic effect, increasing the water content of the extracellular matrix and enhancing the desquamation of upper layers of dead skin cells, increasing the smoothness of the skin; promotion of cell proliferation and wound healing; and a soothing, anti-irritant, and skin protectant effect by forming complexes with irritant and sensitizing agents.Allantoin is present in botanical extracts of the comfrey plant and uric acid from cows, most mammals.

 

ALOE VERA -

Topically, aloe vera benefits dry and cracked skin, burns, blisters, frostbite, insect bites, and allergic reactions. Topical aloe vera application also helps to assure that when applying aloe products, you will get the highest concentrations of the natural healing agent delivered directly to your skin. Aloe vera products, when used as part of a daily skin treatment regimen, can help keep your skin healthy. Aloe vera oil has recognized healing and restorative properties, and is widely utilized in many high-end lotion, cream, and gel products. It has traditionally been used to treat various skin conditions, including psoriasis, eczema, inflammations, burns and wounds. Aloe vera is also a great skin moisturizer that helps to keep skin supple by bringing oxygen to the cells, and therefore increasing the synthesis and strength of skin tissue.

One of the main reasons aloe vera has become so popular among consumers is that it possesses incredible moisturizing properties. Studies show that aloe vera improves the skin's ability to hydrate itself, aids in the removal of dead skin cells and has an effective penetrating ability that helps transport healthy substances through the skin.

Aloe Vera Clinical Studies

According to a double-blind study that enrolled 60 men and women with mild to moderate symptoms of psoriasis, it was found that aloe vera cream may have been helpful for this chronic skin condition. Participants were treated with either topical aloe vera extract (0.5%) or a placebo cream, applied 3 times daily for 4 weeks. Aloe treatment produced significantly better results than the placebo, and these results were said to endure for almost a year after treatment was stopped while some patients did not see a return of the psoriasis. (1)

Seborrhea is a fairly common skin condition, leading to oily, red, and scaly eruptions in various areas of the skin. A double-blind placebo-controlled study of 44 individuals found that 4 to 6 weeks of treatment with aloe ointment could significantly reduce symptoms of seborrhea. (2)

(1) Syed TA, Ahmad SA, Holt AH, et al. Management of psoriasis with aloe vera extract in a hydrophilic cream: a placebo-controlled, double-blind study. Trop. Med. Int. Health. 1996, 1:505-509.

(2) Vardy DA, Cohen AD, Tchetov T, et al. A double-blind, placebo-controlled trial of an aloe vera (A. barbadensis) emulsion in the treatment of seborrheic dermatitis. J Dermatol Treat. 1999, 10:7-11.

http://www.softecare.com/Ingredients/aloevera.cfm

 

AMARANTH OIL (AMARANTHUS CANDATUS)
 
 Amaranth oil is extracted from the seeds of the plant through CO2 supercritical solvent free extraction. The resulting oil has precious properties: the high content in essential fatty acids (in particular linoelic acid 40-50%) and squalene (a skin natural component which content range is 5-8%) makes the composition of this oil very similar to that of skin surface lipids.
Amaranth oil is therefore very useful to restore normal levels in the horny layer of epidermis and to reduce transepidermic loss of water, thus preserving natural moisture of the skin also in very dry places. All these properties make skin soft, smooth and tonic.
That’s not all! Amaranth oil can also absorb UV rays and fight free radicals, that’s why it is also used in sun care and anti-aging products. Moreover, thanks to its proven anti-inflammatory properties amaranth oil can be effectively used to treat psioriasis vulgaris and atopic dermatitis.

Squalene
Squalene is a matter which takes the oxygen and brings it to the organs of the organism. So it's a powerful anticancer substance. Squalene can penetrate through the skin into the body and plays a great role for the immunity. Amaranth Oil has 8 % of squalene– a marked olefin. Squalene was first isolated from the liver of a shark, but it is also found naturally in the skin of humans.

Squalene is said to have properties that ward off cancer producing substances in the body. It also fights against bacteria, fungi, herpes and other viruses, and improves autoimmune disorders. Shark oil has a 1% squalene content, while the content of amaranth oil is 8%. Amaranth oil has antibacterial, anti-tumor, and burn- and wound-healing properties. Animal tests also show amaranth lowers blood serum cholesterol, and some varieties contain up to three percent rutin.

 

AVOCADO OIL- Avocado (Persea americana)
Avocado oil is made from the pulp of the avocado fruit. It is a rich, heavy but penetrating oil that is full of nutritive and therapeutic components. Avocado oil contains more than 20 % essential unsaturated fatty acids. It contains vitamins A, C, D and E, proteins, beta-carotene, lecithin, fatty acids and the "youth mineral" potassium. Avocado oil is high in unsaponifiables (sterolins) which are reputed to be beneficial in reducing age spots, healing scars and moisturizing the upper layers of the skin. Unsaponifiables are a large group of compounds called plant steroids or sterolins. They soften the skin, have superior moisturizing effect on the upper layer of the skin and reduce scars. The sterolins in avocado oil have been found to diminish age spots.

A 1991 study at the Department of Food Engineering and Biotechnology, Technion-Israel Institute of
Technology found that treatment with avocado oil significantly increases the water soluble collagen content
in the dermis, which effects the age of the skin. Avocado is used in many folk medicines as an aphrodisiac.
Avocado oil is an emollient and very stable. According to the AMA's committee on Coetaneous Health it  does help make the skin feel softer and smoother, reduce roughness, cracking and irritation. And may possibly retard the fine wrinkles of aging. Said to help protect the skin from ultraviolet rays.

http://www.aromaforsouls.com/ME-Ingredients.htm

 

BERGAMOT ESSENTIAL OIL-

Bergamot is believed to have therapeutic properties, too. Essential oil expert Salvatore Battaglia tells us that bergamot oil is:

• Analgesic
• Antidepressant
• Anti-Microbial
• Carminative
• Digestive
• Sedative
• Febrifuge
• Nervine
• Stomachic
• Tonic

Scientific Studies on Bergamot Oil
Fungal Infections
A number of in vitro studies have found bergamot essential oil effective against many of the most common species of dermatophytes. One of the most notable studies was a 2007 Italian study that ultimately suggested that bergamot oil may be an effective topical treatment for Candida and other common nail and skin infections.
Antibacterial Properties
Bergamot has long been known to have anti-microbial properties. A 2006 study of essential oil vapors confirmed this when it found bergamot essential oil the most effective citrus oil tested against common species of bacteria, including E. coli, Campylobacter and Listeria.

 References:
Battaglia, S. (2005). The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy
Sanguinetti, M., et al. (2007). In vitro activity of Citrus bergamia (bergamot) oil against clinical isolates of dermatophytes.
Fisher, K., et al. (2007). The effect of lemon, orange and bergamot essential oils and their components on the survival of Campylobacter jejuni, Escherichia coli O157, Listeria monocytogenes, Bacillus cereus and Staphylococcus aureus in vitro and in food systems.
Kaddu, S., et al. (2001). Accidental bullous phototoxic reactions to bergamot aromatherapy oil.

bilberry- An astringent shrinks and tightens the top layers of skin or mucous membranes, thereby reducing secretions, relieving irritation, and improving tissue firmness.

Abstract;Glutamate decarboxylase (GAD) catalyzes the synthesis of gamma-aminobutyric acid, an inhibitory neurotransmitter, from glutamate. An expression of GAD protein has been reported from brain and pancreas, but not from skin. In this study, we presented evidence that GAD67 is expressed in human dermal fibroblasts and involved in the oxidative stress tolerance, production of hyaluronic acid and dermal modeling. Furthermore, we showed that Bilberry leaf extract enhanced GAD67 expression in dermal fibroblasts, resulting in the stimulation of cell growth, hyaluronic acid and glutathione synthesis. In addition, the extract showed inhibitory activity of collagenase, elastase, decrease of melanin content in B16 melanoma cells and suppression of histamine release from mast cells. These data indicate that Bilberry leaf extract is a promising natural ingredient against aging skin. (author abst.)

bLADDERWRACK (HERB)- Treatment of human skin with an extract of Fucus vesiculosus changes its thickness and mechanical properties.
Fujimura T, Tsukahara K, Moriwaki S, Kitahara T, Sano T, Takema Y.
Biological Science Laboratories, Kao Corporation, 2606 Akabane, Ichikai-machi, Haga-gun, Tochigi 321-3497, Japan.

Recently the researchers found that an extract of Fucus vesiculosus, which is a type of seaweed, promotes the contraction of fibroblast-populated collagen gels through increased expression of integrin molecules. In this study, they investigated the effects of topical application of an aqueous extract of this alga on the thickness and the mechanical properties of human skin. A gel formulation that included 1% of the extract was applied topically to human cheek skin twice daily for five weeks. A significant decrease in skin thickness measured by B-mode ultrasound was elicited, as was a significant improvement in elasticity measured with a Cutometer as compared with controls. In cheek skin, the thickness normally increases and the elasticity usually decreases with age. These results suggest that the Fucus vesiculosus extract possesses anti-aging activities and should be useful for a variety of cosmetics.http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11917251?dopt=Citation

 

bromalAIn- Bromelain is a protein-digesting enzyme found in the pineapple plant (Ananas comosus). Pineapple has a long tradition as a medicinal plant among the native peoples of South America and Central America.

The health benefits of bromelain also include help for colds, asthma, and excessive mucus production in the respiratory system. Patients who suffer from hay fever and other seasonal allergies may also benefit from bromelain's anti-inflammatory activity. Other recognized benefits of bromelain include reducing the painful symptoms of varicose veins, including dull aches, tired legs and feet, and itchy skin.

Medically, bromelain appears to have anti-inflammatory properties similar to other anti-inflammatory medications, such as ibuprofen.

 

BURDOCK ROOT (HERB)- Overview

Burdock has been used as a topical remedy for skin problems such as eczema, acne, and psoriasis.

Available Forms

Burdock products consist of fresh or dried roots. Burdock supplements can be purchased as dried root powder, decoctions (liquid made by boiling down the herb in water), tinctures (a solution of the herb in alcohol, or water and alcohol), or fluid extracts.

Pregnant or nursing women should avoid burdock as it may cause damage to the fetus.

If you are sensitive to daises, chrysanthemums, or ragweed, you may also experience an allergic reaction to burdock.

People who are dehydrated should not take burdock because the herb's diuretic effects may make dehydration worse.

It is best to avoid taking large amounts of burdock as a supplement because there are so few studies on the herb's safety. However, burdock eaten as a food is considered safe.

Supporting Research

Blumenthal M, Busse WR, Goldberg A, et al, ed. The Complete German Commission E Monographs. Therapeutic Guide to Herbal Medicines . Boston, Mass: Integrative Medicine Communications; 1998:318.

Bissett NG, ed. Herbal Drugs and Phytopharmaceuticals . Boca Raton: CRC Press; 1994:99-101.

Bradley P, ed. British Herbal Compendium . Dorset, England:British Herbal Medicine Association. 1996:47-49.

De Smet PAGM, Keller K, Hänsel R, et al, eds. Adverse Effects of Herbal Drugs . Berlin, Germany: Springer-Verlag; 1997:231–237.

Grases F, Melero G, Costa-Bauza A, et al. Urolithiasis and phytotherapy. Int Urol Nephrol . 1994;26:507–511.

Gruenwald J, Brendler T, Jaenicke C. PDR for Herbal Medicines . 2nd ed. Montvale, NJ: Medical Economics Company; 2000.

Hutchens A. Indian Herbalogy of North America . Boston, Mass: Shambhala Publications; 1991:62–65.

Lin CC, Lu JM, Yang JJ, et al. Anti-inflammatory and radical scavenge effects of Arctium lappa. Am J Chin Med . 1996;24:127–137.

Lin SC, Lin CH, Lin CC, et al. Hepatoprotective effects of Arctium lappa Linne on liver injuries induced by chronic ethanol consumption and potentiated by carbon tetrachloride. J Biomed Sci . 2002 Sep-Oct;9(5):401-9.

Newall C, Anderson L, Phillipson J. Herbal Medicines: A Guide for Health-care Professionals . London, England: Pharmaceutical Press; 1996:52–53.

Swanston-Flatt SK, Day C, Flatt PR, et al. Glycaemic effects of traditional European plant treatments for diabetes. Studies in normal and streptozotocin diabetic mice. Diabetes Res . 1989;413:69–73.

Tyler V. The Honest Herbal: A Sensible Guide to the Use of Herbs and Related Remedies . 4th ed. New York, NY: Haworth Herbal Press; 1999:71-72.

http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/burdock-000227.htm

 

BUTCHERSBROOM (HERB)- Butchers Broom Benefits and Information

Butcher's broom (also called Jew's Myrtle, Knee Holly, Kneeholm, Pettigree, Sweet Broom) is a small-leafed bush cultivated in the Mediterranean and Europe. It is part of the lilly family, and is quite similar to your everday asparagus plant. Both the root and stem of the plant are used in herbal preparations.

Butchers broom has been used to improve circulation, relieve constipation, and to relieve water retention discomfort. It is reported that butcher's broom can tighten the circulatory system's veins and strengthen the capillary walls. It is rich in flavonoids such as rutin and enhances blood flow to the brain, legs, and hands.

Butchers broom has been reported to be effective in treating a variety of conditions including:

• Chronic venous insufficiency
• Atherosclerosis
• Hemorrhoids
• Varicose veins

This herb may also lessen cramps, swelling, and other symptoms associated with chronic venous insufficiency, a condition that occurs when valves in the veins that carry blood back to the heart are weak or damaged. This insufficiency allows blood to collect in the veins, which may cause varicose veins, spider veins, sores, and even blood clots in the legs. Though not as common in the United States, a butcher's broom derivative is used in European hospitals to prevent blood clots post surgery.

Butcher's broom has been used as a mild diuretic and laxative, though other drugs are now considered more effective. Scientists are investigating butcher's broom for the treatment of orthostatic hypotension (a drop in blood pressure after standing). Advanced age, certain drugs, and medical conditions such as diabetes and Parkinson's disease are often associated with orthostatic hypotension.

There are a number of user submitted butchers broom product reviews and ratings available at NutritionalTree.com.

Supporting Literature

Bouskela E, Cyrino FZ, Marcelon G. Inhibitory effect of the Ruscus extract and of the flavonoid hesperidine methylchalcone on increased microvascular permeability induced by various agents in the hamster cheek pouch. J Cardiovasc Pharmacol 1993;22:220-230.
Weiss RF. Herbal Medicine. Gothenburg, Sweden: Arcanum, 1988, 117-118.

 

camellia oil- One of the best facial oils because it penetrates the skin quickly and provides hormone-like compounds and antioxidant properties. Camellia is any plant of the genus Camellia in the tea family, Camellia sineusis. They are evergreen like shrubs or small trees native to Asia. It is one of the most rapidly absorbed oils making it an excellent choice as a facial oil. Camellia oil contains vitamins, A, B &E and various minerals, P, Za, Ca, Fe, Mn, and Mg.

 

CARROT SEED OIL- Common Name: Carrot 

Latin Binomial:Daucus carota

Family: Apiaceae (Umbelliferae)

It has a positive action on the skin, being used as a natural tanning agent and skin toner to protect aging and wrinkled skin. It is also helpful for skin problems, including eczema, psoriasis, rashes, etc. The carrot plant contains substantial amounts of Vitamins A, B₁, B₂ and C. 

Precautions and Contraindications: Carrot oil tested non-toxic at low levels. It should be avoided when pregnant because it can promote menstruation.

Bibliography

Arctander, Steffen. Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural Origin. Carol Stream, Illinois: Allured Publishing Corporation. 1994.

Battaglia, Salvatore. The Complete Guide to Aromatherapy. Virginia, Queensland, Australia: The Perfect Potion. 1995.

Damian, Peter & Kate, Aromatherapy, Scent & Psyche. Rochester, Vermont. Healing Arts Press. 1995.

Foster, Steven and James A. Duke. A Field Guide to Medicinal Plants. Boston. Houighton Mifflin. 1990.

Lawless, Julia. The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils. Shaftesbury, Dorset. Element Books. 1995.

Ryman, Daniele. Aromatherapy, The Complete Guide to Plant and Flower Essences for Health and Beauty. Bantam Books. 1991

 

 

CASTOR OIL-

 

CLAY (Redmond)- Volcanic ash clay also known as sodium bentonite clay is formed when the ash, which results from a volcanic eruption, mixes with water. The result is clay, which contains an extensive concentration of a number of minerals. These minerals have been found to have a number of healthy benefits.

Volcanic Ash clay can help to beautify and purify the skin. It draws away the toxins and poisons that every day life puts on your skin letting its natural beauty show through. It can also help to reduce the signs of aging, give the skin a youthful appearance, and glow. It also helps reduce the signs of sun damage and the appearance of cellulite and acne. It really is one of the best ways to treat your skin.

These minerals have been found to create a significant difference in the health and vitality of the skin when applied in the form of masks and masques. When applying this volcanic ash clay to the skin it helps to lift and firm the skin. It also can help to exfoliate the skin as well which lifts dead cells and can provide a radiant look to the skin.

Sodium Bentonite clay or volcanic ash clay because of its mineral content can draw toxins out of the skin it can also help to draw out a number of impurities. These impurities and toxins are some of the things, which cause skin conditions like acne, and blemishes, which can lower self-esteem. Using a clay mask can help to pull out oils, and other substances, which leads to these types of blemishes. Clay treatments can also help to reduce the appearance of cellulite, sun damage, wrinkles and even stretch marks. The secret is the minerals, which make up the volcanic ash clay.

How it works

Sodium Bentonite works by gathering an electrical charge as soon as it becomes hydrated. This electrical charge is part of what makes it so effective. The high mineral content and the electrical charge is what draws out the impurities and helps to absorb the toxins, heavy metal and other contaminants that can cause the blemishes and other skin impurities.

It swells and as it swells, it brings out the toxins in the skin. It then draws those toxins into the center of the clay every much like a sponge. The electrical charge prevents them from being reabsorbed into the skin. In other words, it binds the toxins, poisons and traps them within the clay.

"Sodium Bentonite Clay is mineral-rich that originates from the sweeping plains of Fort Benton, Wyoming. It was named by American geologist John Pascal shortly after its discovery in 1890. It is often referred to as "living clay," which means that it is considered safe for ingestion for humans, animals and plants (although we certainly don't recommend that you eat it!)"

"The surface of the Sodium Bentonite Clay molecule is comprised of numerous microscopic platelets, just 1 to 2 microns in size, each with a negative electrical attraction for positively charged toxins and impurities. This creates a strong effect which draws toxins and impurities to the molecule's surface-much like a magnet-and holds them there. These impurities are then carried away with the clay when it is removed, leaving behind skin that's cleansed, refreshed and purified. Moreover, the microscopic size of Sodium Bentonite molecules enables the clay to easily penetrate the pores, which helps the skin better absorb essential nutrients and moisture."

Up until recently because of the unique compound and the fact that it can only be found in certain areas the volcanic clay ash was only used in the most exclusive spas. One that only the wealthy and the famous could afford, now this secret has been opened to the masses in a number of beauty products that can make it possible for everyone to enjoy the wonders and benefits of this well kept skin purifying and beautifying secret.

These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration. This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

http://ezinearticles.com/?Volcanic-Ash-Clay-Skin-Care-Can-Do-Wonders-For-Your-Skin&id=1101979

 

CHAMOMILE- Overview

In German pediatric medicine, chamomile preparations are the first choice in caring for the sensitive skin of infants and young children, especially for inflammatory skin conditions such as nappy rash and milk crust (Schilcher, 1997).In the United States, it is now one of the most widely used herbal tea ingredients. It is used singly or as a primary component in a wide range of dietary supplement and health food products for oral ingestion, and in skin care for topical application (Foster, 1990; Leung and Foster, 1996). German chamomile is also classified in the Homeopathic Pharmacopoeia of the United States as an OTC Class C drugprepared as a 1:10 (w/v) alcoholic tincture of the whole flowering plant, in 45% v/v alcohol (HPUS, 1992).

Modern human studies have investigated its anti-inflammatory, antipeptic, antiphlogistic, antispasmodic, antibacterial, and sedative actions (Bradley, 1992; Leung and Foster, 1996; Mann and Staba, 1986; Szabo-Szalontai and Verzar-Petri, 1977; Newall et al., 1996). One in vivo skin penetration study of chamomile flavones was carried out with nine healthy female volunteers. The study concluded that the flavonoids are not only absorbed at the skin surface, but penetrate into deeper skin layers, which is important for their topical use as antiphlogistic agents (Merfort et al., 1994).

In another controlled bilateral comparative study, the efficacy of a chamomile ointment (Kamillosan) vs. 0.25% hydrocortisone, 0.75% fluocortin butyl ester, and 5% bufexamac was studied as dermatologic agents in maintenance therapy of eczematous diseases. Over a period of three to four weeks, maintenance therapy was carried out on 161 patients suffering from inflammatory dermatoses on hands, forearms, and lower legs who had been initially treated with 0.2% difluorcortolone valerate. The chamomile preparation showed more or less equally effective therapeutic results as the hydrocortisone. It proved superior, however, to the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory agent 5% bufexamac as well as to the 0.75% fluocortin butyl ester. The authors concluded that for treatment of neurodermitis, chamomile ointment is therapeutically comparable to hydrocortisone and superior to the other tested products (Aertgeerts et al., 1985).

In a prospective, double-blind, randomized, multicenter, parallel group study, 79 children (6 months to 5.5 years of age) with acute, non-complicated diarrhea received either an apple pectin-chamomile extract preparation or placebo in addition to the usual rehydration and alimentation diet. After three days of treatment, the diarrhea had ended significantly more in the experimental group than in the placebo group. The pectin-chamomile preparation reduced the duration of diarrhea significantly (p <0.05) by at least 5.2 hours. The parents documented the well-being in a diary twice daily and, in contrast to placebo, a trend of continuous improvement was observed in the pectin-chamomile group (de la Motte et al., 1997).

In a clinical double-blind study the therapeutic efficacy of a chamomile extract on wound healing was investigated on 14 patients after receiving tattoos. Objective parameters were used to evaluate the epithelial and drying effect of the chamomile preparation topically applied to the weeping wound area after dermabrasion from tattoos. The authors reported the decrease of weeping wound area as well as the drying tendency to be statistically significant (Glowania et al., 1987).

Other Uses:

Useful in treatment of skin problems such as dermatitis, acne, allergies, boils, burns, cuts, rashes, dry itchy skin, hair care, eczema, inflammations, insect bites and wounds. Benefits the nervous systems and useful in treatment of stress-related conditions such as headache, insomnia and nervous tension. Useful in the treatment of circulation, muscles and joints complications and relieves arthritis, inflamed joints, muscular pains, neuralgia, rheumatism and sprains. Effective in the case of indigestive, nausea and vomiting. Benefits the genitourinary system and effective in the treatment of menopausal problems.

 

Safety Data:

Non-toxic. Non-irritant.

LIST OF REFERENCES:

Lawless, J. The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils - The Complete Guide to the Use of Oils in Aromatherapy and Herbalism, Element, Shaftesbury, 1995

Medicinal Plants of Nepal, His Majesty's Government of Nepal, Ministry of Forest and Soil Conservation, Department of Plant Resources, 6th Edition, Kathmandu, 2001

 

http://www.everestherbs.com.np/products/oil/chamomile.htm

 

CHAPARALL (HERB)- Applied to the skin, chaparral can have a remarkable healing effect on eczema, herpes, cold sores, psoriasis, and contact dermatitis.

http://phase3ministries.com/wordpress/2008/10/08/

 

cocoa butter- Cocoa butter, also called cacao butter, is the cream-colored fat extracted from cacao seeds (cocoa beans) and used to add flavor, scent, and smoothness to chocolate, cosmetics, tanning oil, soap, and a multitude of topical lotions and creams. Cocoa butter has been called the ultimate moisturizer, and has been used to keep skin soft and supple for centuries. It is one of the most stable, highly concentrated natural fats known, and melts at body temperature so that it is readily absorbed into the skin. Cocoa butter is often recommended for treatment of skin conditions such as eczema and dermatitis. When applied topically, it creates a barrier between sensitive skin and the environment and also helps retain moisture. In addition, cocoa butter contains cocoa mass polyphenol (CMP), a substance that inhibits the production of the immuno globulin IgE. IgE is known to aggravate symptoms of both dermatitis and asthma.

 
Cocoa butter is found in chocolate of course, and as previously stated, is an ingredient in countless topical preparations. You can also buy pure cocoa butter at pharmacies, health food stores, and from online distributorships. There have been rare cases of sensitive individuals having skin reactions to this substance. If you notice any rash or discomfort, simply discontinue use of this product.

http://www.vitaminstuff.com/supplements-cocoa-butter.html

 

COCONUT OIL- http://www.mercola.com/forms/coconut_oil.htm

It prevents destructive free-radical formation and provides protection against them. It can help to keep the skin from developing liver spots, and other blemishes caused by aging and over exposure to sunlight. It helps to prevent sagging and wrinkling by keeping connective tissues strong and supple. In some cases it might even restore damaged or diseased skin. The oil is absorbed into the skin and into the cell structure of the connective tissues, limiting the damage excessive sun exposure can cause.

 

Coconut oil will not only bring temporary relief to the skin, but it will aid in healing and repairing. It will have lasting benefits, unlike most lotions. It can help bring back a youthful appearance. The coconut oil will aid in removing the outer layer of dead skin cells, making the skin smoother. The skin will become more evenly textured with a healthy "shine". And the coconut oil will penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin and strengthen the underlying tissues.

 

COMFREY ROOT (HERB)- Overview

Comfrey ( Symphytum officinale ) traditionally has been used to treat wounds and reduce the inflammation associated with sprains and broken bones. The roots and leaves contain allantoin, a substance that helps new skin cells to grow, along with other substances that reduce inflammation and keep skin healthy. Comfrey ointments were often applied to the surface of the skin to heal bruises as well as pulled muscles and ligaments, fractures, sprains, and strains.

 

Precautions

Comfrey contains toxic substances that can cause severe liver damage and possibly even death. For this reason, comfrey and comfrey-containing products should never be taken orally.

Because the same toxic substances can be absorbed by the skin, even topical comfrey preparations should be used for only a short time under the supervision of a knowledgeable health care provider.

Comfrey should never be applied to open wounds or broken skin.

Do not use comfrey if you have liver disease.

Children, the elderly, and pregnant or breastfeeding women should not use comfrey products -- either orally or topically -- under any circumstances.

 

Possible Interactions

There are no known scientific reports of interactions between comfrey and conventional medications. Some herbs that have also been known to cause liver problems, such as kava, scullcap, and valerian, should not be used while using comfrey ointment or cream because of the increased potential for liver damage.

 

Supporting Research

Blumenthal M, Busse WR, Goldberg A, et al., ed. The Complete German Commission E Monograph; Therapeutic Guide to Herbal Medicines . Boston. Mass: Integrative Medicine Communications; 1998:115–116.

Brinker F. Herb Contraindications and Drug Interactions . 2nd ed. Sandy, OR: Eclectic Medical Publications; 1998:63.

Cirigliano M, Sun A. Advising patients about herbal therapies. JAMA . 1998;280(18):1565-1566.

Foster S, Tyler VE. Tyler's Honest Herbal . 4th ed. New York: The Haworth Herbal Press; 1999:121-125.

Gruenwald J, Brendler T, Jaenicke C, eds. PDR for Herbal Medicines . 2nd ed. Montvale, NJ: Medical Economics Co; 2000:212-213.

Koll R, Klingenburg S. Therapeutic characteristance and tolerance of topical comfrey preparations. Results of an observational study of patients. Fortschr Med Orig . 2002;120(1):1-9.

Miller LG. Herbal medicinals: selected clinical considerations focusing on known or potential drug-herb interactions. Arch Intern Med . 1998;158(20):2200–2211.

Miskelly FG, Goodyer LI. Hepatic and pulmonary complications of herbal medicines. Postgrad Med J . 1992;68:935–936.

Newall CA, Anderson LA, Phillipson JD. eds. Herbal Medicines: A Guide for Health-care Professionals . London: Pharmaceutical Press; 1996:87–89.

Ridker PM, Ohkuma S, McDermott WV, Trey C, Huxtable RJ. Hepatic venocclusive disease associated with the consumption of pyrrolizidine-containing dietary supplements. Gastroenterology . 1985;(88):1050–1054.

Schulz V, Hänsel R, Tyler VE. Rational Phytotherapy: A Physician's Guide to Herbal Medicine . 3rd ed. Berlin: Springer; 1998:262.

Stickel F, Seitz HK. The efficacy and safety of comfrey. Public Health Nutr . 2000;3(4A):501-508.

Weston CFM, Cooper BT, Davies JD, et al. Veno-occlusive disease of the liver secondary to ingestion of comfrey. Br Med J . 1987;295:183.

Yeong ML, Swinburn B, Kennedy M, Nicholson G. Hepatic veno-occlusive disease associated with comfrey ingestion. J Gastroenterol Hepatol . 1990;5(2):211-214.

http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/comfrey-000234.htm

 

CoQ10- Potential mechanisms for a beneficial effect of carnitine supplementation on exercise performance in healthy humans

 

        1.          Enhance muscle fatty acid oxidation

        2.          Decrease muscle glycogen depletion rates

        3.          Shift substrate used in muscle from fatty acid to glucose

        4.          Replace muscle carnitine redistributed into acylcarnitine

        5.          Activate pyruvate dehydrogenase via lowering of acetyl-CoA content

        6.          Improve muscle fatigue resistance

        7.          Replace carnitine lost during training

 Brass EP. Supplemental carnitine and exercise. Am J Clin Nutr 2000 Aug; 72(2 Suppl):618S-23S.

 

DMAE - Dimethylaminoethenol (DMAE) a naturally occurring chemical produced by the human brain.

Recent studies involving a gel formulation containing DMAE have shown that the compound can increase skin firmness, even in younger subjects. Thirty healthy adults between the ages of 36 and 49 were given tests that measured changes in skin tautness after application with the DMAE gel, compared to placebo. Results indicated that the placebo had little or no effect on skin firmness, while the DMAE-treated skin exhibited greater tautness.

Age spots, or “liver spots,” also may respond effectively to DMAE in cream, gel, or tablet form. Studies have shown that DMAE’s membrane-stabilizing properties reduced the accumulation of lipofuscin deposits inside cells.10 Lipofuscin, a brownish cellular pigment consisting of aggregated chunks of molecular waste formed by the inefficient metabolism of fatty acids, tends to occur in the cells of older people and is primarily responsible for age spots. DMAE has been shown to flush excess lipofuscin from affected skin cells.

DMAE’s antioxidant effects can offer probable benefits of value in the maintenance of overall cellular health.

9. Uhoda I, Faska N, Robert C, Cauwenbergh G, Pierard GE. Split face study on the cutaneous tensile effect of 2-dimethylaminoethanol (deanol) gel. Skin Res Technol. 2002 Aug;8(3):164-7.

10. Dylewski DP, Nandy S, Nandy K. Effects of centrophenoxine on lipofuscin in the retinal pigment epithelium of old mice. Neurobiol Aging. 1983;4(1):89-95.

11. Riga S, Riga D. Effects of centrophenoxine on the lipofuscin pigments in the nervous system of old rats. Brain Res. 1974 Jun 7;72(2):265-75.

12. Zs-Nagy I. Pharmacological interventions against aging through the cell plasma membrane: a review of the experimental results obtained in animals and humans. Ann N Y Acad Sci. 2002 Apr;959:308-20.

13. Post JA, Bijvelt JJ, Verkleij AJ. Phosphatidylethanolamine and sarcolemmal damage during ischemia or metabolic inhibition of heart myocytes. Am J Physiol. 1995 Feb; 268(2 Pt 2): H773-80.

http://www.lef.org/magazine/mag2004/nov2004_aas_01.htm

 

ELEMI OIL- Elemi (Canarium luzonicum) is a tropical tree native to the Phillipines. It has been known and used in the Middle East for thousands of years and became popular in Europe in the 15th century.
An excellent oil for skin care, especially for mature skin. It has a general rejuvenating effect and reduces wrinkles. It is also antiseptic and helps speed the healing process.

Elemi has analgesic, antiviral, bactericide, balsamic, expectorant, fungicide, tonic and vulnerary properties.
 
Elemi is non-toxic, non-irritant (except to very sensitive skins) and non-sensitising

 Elemi should not be used during pregnancy or whilst breast feeding.

 http://www.worldwidehealth.com/health-article-What-is-Elemi-Essential-Oil.html

 

FLAXSEED MEAL- Flaxseed and its derivative flaxseed oil/linseed oil are rich sources of the essential fatty acid alpha-linolenic acid, which is a biologic precursor to omega-3 fatty acids such as eicosapentaenoic acid. Although omega-3 fatty acids have been associated with improved cardiovascular outcomes

 

flaxseed oil-  Latin Name: Linum usitatissimum
Pharmacopeial Name: Lini semen
Other Names: flax, linseed

Overview

It is still official in the Chinese pharmacopeia for constipation and dry itching skin (Tu, 1992).The Ayurvedic Pharmacopoeia specifically approves its external use as a poultice for boils and carbuncles and its internal use as a demulcent or laxative (Karnick, 1994). Flaxseed poultices are used for inflammations, abscesses, and relief of pain in American conventional medicine (Taber, 1962) and as an emollient in modern veterinary medicine (Budavari, 1996).

Compress or fomentation: Saturate a stupe with hot semi-solid preparation containing 30-50 g flaxseed flour; fold and apply firmly for a moist-heat direct application to the skin to relieve pain or inflammation.

FRANKINSENSE OIL-

Frainkincense is also beneficial for various skin conditions.  It is mild enough to be applied without dilution, in most instances.  It can be used for dermatitis, acne and other skin conditions, as well as to reduce wrinkles or scarring from cuts and wounds.  The most practical way to use frankincense for skin care applications is to dilute it down to 1% - 2% in a carrier oil or ointment before using.

Frankincense is also a powerful immune enhancer.  It is great for use during the cold and flu season; but then, your immune system is constantly challenged in today's world, and boosting your immune system is a great idea any time.  The chemical constituents in frankincense oil support the healthy production of white blood cells. 

Modern research into frankincense oil

It's nearly impossible to list all of the benefits linked to this potent essential oil.  Science is just beginning to understand some of its more prominent benefits.

Researchers from Japan and the University of Maryland both determined that frankincense oil has anti-inflammatory properties.  Studies have shown that the boswellic acids in frankincense have an anti-inflammatory action, much like the conventional nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) used for many inflammatory conditions today.

This is critical when you realize that inflammation is widely-believed to be the root cause of many chronic and degenerative diseases, from heart disease to diabetes to Lupus and Crohn's disease to Parkinson's and Alzheimer's disease to arthritis to cancer.  And it takes on even more significance when you consider the serious risks posed by most of these drugs, from cardiovascular risks to joint deterioration to cancer.

Recent studies also suggest that boswellic acids exert significant anti-cancer, anti-microbial and immune-boosting effects.  Other studies support the anti-carcinogenic effects of boswellic acids; two in vitro and one in vivo.

Clinical studies using frankincense have shown its benefits for both osteo- and rheumatoid arthritis.  Its anti-inflammatory properties have also been shown to make frankincense a safe and effective treatment for asthma, inflammatory bowel diseases, such as colitis, Crohn's disease and ileitis.

http://www.doterra-aromatics.com/products/singles/frankincense.html

 

GERMALL PLUS Preservative- It is a white, free-flowing hygroscopic powder which is water soluble and compatible with virtually all cosmetic ingredients. is a unique and cost effective preservative that provides a high level of antimicrobial activity in a wide variety of cosmetic and personal care formulations. This patented combination of Germall II (diazolidinyl urea) and 3-iodo-2-propynyl butyl carbamate (IPBC) has a dual mode of action that achieves a synergistic preservative effect. This action is highly effective in inhibiting the growth of Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria and troublesome house organisms, plus yeasts and molds, without the need of additional auxiliary preservatives.

 

GLUCOSAMINE-

"Chronic venous insufficiency" is a syndrome that includes leg swelling, varicose veins, pain, itching, skin changes, and skin ulcers. The term is more commonly used in Europe than in the United States. Currently, there is not enough reliable scientific evidence to recommend glucosamine in the treatment of this condition.

 

GLYCERINE (VEGETABLE)- What glycerin does do is help maintain the water balance in the intercellular matrix and in so doing it maintains the skin's homeostasis. It has also been suggested that glycerin found in this level helps other lipids to perform their work more effectively. It is used as a fragrance ingredient, humectant, skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant and viscosity decreasing agent

http://www.dermaxime.com/glycerin.htm

GOTU KOLA- it has been used as skin anti-inflammatory in the East for thousands of years. Gotu Kola contains many nutrients that support the body’s vitality with its vitamins A, B, E and K, and as well as magnesium.

Gotu Kola is an excellent ingredient in skin care formulations as an aid in cell reconstruction. With its effect on connective tissue, the synthesis of collagen is enhanced resulting in the thickening of the skin which we know is imperative to combat wrinkles created from thinning skin.

http://www.chella.com/skin-care-tips/26/gotu-kola-in-skin-care-products

\Wound healing and skin lesions

Gotu kola contains triterpenoids, compounds that have been shown to aid in wound healing. For example, animal studies indicate that triterpenoids strengthen the skin, increase the concentration of antioxidants in wounds, and restore inflamed tissues by increasing blood supply. Because of these properties, gotu kola has been used externally for burns, psoriasis, prevention of scar formation following surgery, recovery from an episiotomy following vaginal delivery of a newborn, and treatment of external fistulas (a tear at or near the anus).

You can find gotu kola in many topical preparations for wound healing. Ask your health care provider.

http://www.umm.edu/altmed/articles/gotu-kola-000253.htm

 

GRAPESEED EXTRACT- http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-grape-seed-extract.htm

Grape seed, or Vitis vinifera contains many health-promoting compounds, ranging from wrinkle reduction to pain relief. Grape seed extract can be applied topically or taken internally, and is the best known source of antioxidants available.

Grape seed extract may also have topical uses. In preliminary research, grape seed extract appears to be moderately effective for preventing tooth decay. It is believed to delay or stop the breakdown of sugars in the mouth and also to inhibit the growth of certain oral bacteria that may play a role in forming dental cavities. In other studies, injuries to the skin of laboratory animals may have healed better when grape seed extract was applied. Through several possible effects that include promoting the regrowth of connective tissues, grape seed extract is believed to encourage faster, stronger healing with less scarring.

 

 

GREEN TEA EXTRACT- Green Tea Gives Skin Healthy Glow - HealthDay, 5/15/03 - "Green tea contains compounds called polyphenols, which help eliminate free radicals. These free radicals can cause cancer by altering DNA. Polyphenols also protect healthy cells while promoting the death of cancer cells ... Cells that migrate toward the surface of the skin normally live about 28 days, and by day 20 they basically sit on the upper layer of the skin getting ready to die. But EGCG reactivates them ... EGCG may offer potential benefits for skin conditions including psoriasis, rosacea, wrinkles and wounds"

 

HONEY-"All honey is antibacterial, because the bees add an enzyme that makes hydrogen peroxide," said Peter Molan, director of the Honey Research Unit at the University of Waikato in New Zealand. "But we still haven't managed to identify the active components. All we know is (the honey) works on an extremely broad spectrum."

A mixture of honey, olive oil, and beeswax may relieve the symptoms associated with eczema and psoriasis, reports Complementary Therapies in Medicine (2003:11;226–34).

Honey has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties that help to decrease pain and the appearance of scars, and that lead to faster wound healing. Olive oil also has antibacterial properties and the ability to inhibit substances that lead to inflammation. Olive oil and honey both contain flavonoids that help protect cells and inhibit histamine (a substance involved in allergic reactions). Beeswax has anti-inflammatory properties and is often included in formulas to treat burns and other skin conditions.

A natural combination of honey, olive oil, and beeswax can provide significant benefit to people suffering from eczema or psoriasis. Perhaps the most significant finding of this study is the ability

Kimberly Beauchamp, ND, received her bachelor’s degree from the University of Rhode Island and her Doctorate of Naturopathic Medicine from Bastyr University in Kenmore, WA. Dr. Beauchamp is a co-founder and practicing physician at South County Naturopaths, Inc. in Wakefield, RI. Her emphasis is on women’s health, pediatrics, and detoxification.

http://bastyrcenter.org/content/view/422/

 

HORSECHESTNUT- Clinical studies on Horse Chestnut

Clinical studies have proven the effectiveness of horse chestnut and its active ingredient – escin - on improving the health of the skin - the benefits is has on veins and capillaries, and the strengthening effect is has on them. ^{General reference 228 - 247} It acts as an antioxidant ^{REF 223}, to inhibit the enzymes collagenase and elastase, which results in healthier collagen and supportive skin structures, leading to a healthier, younger looking skin, while the excellent anti-inflammatory action ^{REF 220} further promotes a clear healthy skin – making it a clear favorite for use in anti-aging skin care products.Benefits of Horse Chestnut on the skin

Apart from improving the health of veins and capillaries ^{REF 218}, it also improves circulation in the skin ^{REF 226}, and since it strengthens the capillaries – it helps to prevent “capillary fragility” which leads to "leaking" from the capillaries into the tissue, which causes oedema ^{REF 222}.

Puffiness and edema, caused by capillary leaking, is prevented and corrected with the application of this compound and the triterpene glycoside contains anti-exudative and vascular astringent ^{REF 227}, which reduces the lysosomal enzymes activity, which normally is found in people with problems with their veins and circulation.

It also assists in reducing the breakdown of glycoacalyx (mucopolysaccharides) in the capillary walls.

It acts as an antioxidant ^{REF 223}, to inhibit the enzymes collagenase and elastase, which results in healthier collagen and supportive skin structures, leading to a healthier, younger looking skin, while the excellent anti-inflammatory action ^{REF 220} further promotes a clear healthy skin – making it a clear favorite for use in anti-aging skin care products.

Summary of the advantages of Horse Chestnut extract on the skin

To summarize the benefits of horse chestnut extract: it is a compound that protects and strengthens the veins and capillaries ^{REF 219}, prevents cellular filtration (leaking), promotes better and healthier collagen ^{REF 221}, fights inflammation ^{Ref 224} - thus making it an all-round promoter of better, healthier and younger looking skin. ^{REF 66 - 82}

Because of all the wonderful qualities of horse chestnut extract, it is one of our "signature ingredients" and is found in the majority of our products.

1. Bisler, H., R. Pfeifer, N. Kluken, P. Pauschinger. 1986. Wirkung von Rosskastaniensamenextrakt auf die traskapillare filtration bei chronischer venoser insuffizien [Effects of horse-chestnut seed extract on transcapillary filtration in chronic venous insufficiency]. Dtsch Med Wochenschr 111(35):1321–1329.
2. Bombardelli, E. and P. Morazzoni. 1996. Aesculus hippocastanum L. Fitoterapia 67(6):483–511.
3. Degenring, F.H. 1996. Aesculus Hipp . Semen for the treatment of venous blood flow disorders. Clinical Expert Report for Bioforce AG (unpublished).
4. Deutsches Arzneibuch (DAB 1997). 1997. Stuttgart: Deutscher Apotheker Verlag.
5. Diehm C., D. Vollbrecht, K Amendt, H.U. Comberg. 1992. Medical edema protection—Clinical benefit in patients with chronic deep vein incompetence. A placebo-controlled double-blind study. Vasa 21(2):188–192.
6. Diehm, C., H.J. Trampisch, S. Lange, C. Schmidt. 1996. Comparison of leg compression stocking and oral horse-chestnut seed extract therapy in patients with chronic venous insufficiency. Lancet 347(8997):292–294.
7. Geissbühler, S. and F.H. Degenring. 1999. Treatment of chronic venous insufficiency with Aesculaforce Vein Gel. Schweiz Zschr Ganzheits Medizin 11:82–87.
8. Greeske, K. and B.K. Pohlmann. 1996. [Horse chestnut seed extract—an effective therapy principle in general practice. Drug therapy of chronic venous insufficiency] [In German]. Fortschr Med 114(15):196–200.
9. Konoshima, T. and K.H. Lee. 1986. Antitumor agents, 82. Cytotoxic sapogenols from Aesculus hippocastanum . J Nat Prod 49(4):650–656.
10. Leung, A.Y. and S. Foster. 1996. Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients Used in Food, Drugs, and Cosmetics, 2nd ed. New York: John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 304–306.
11. Morgan, M. and K. Bone. 1998. Professional Review: Horsechestnut. Medi Herb (65):1–4.
12. Newall, C.A., L.A. Anderson, J.D. Phillipson. 1996. Herbal Medicines: A Guide for Health-Care Professionals. London: The Pharmaceutical Press. 166–167.
13. Pittler, M.H. and E. Ernst. 1998. Horse-chestnut seed extract for chronic venous insufficiency. A criteria-based systematic review. Arch Dermatol 134(11):1356–1360.
14. Shah, D., S. Bommer, F.H. Degenring. 1997. Aesculaforce in chronic venous insufficiency. Schweiz Zschr Ganzheits Medizin 9(2):86–91.
15. Yoshikawa, M. et al. 1996. Bioactive saponins and glycosides. III. Horse chestnut. (1): The structures, inhibitory effects on ethanol absorption, and hypoglycemic activity of escins Ia, Ib, IIa, IIb, and IIIa from the seeds of Aesculus hippocastanum L. Chem Pharm Bull (Tokyo) 44(8):1454–1464.

http://www.dermaxime.com/references.htm#228

hyaluronic acid (  )- Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a component of connective tissue whose

function is to cushion and lubricate. According to the scientists’ research, HA helps to maintain smooth, elastic skin. HA is used in many cosmetics such as make-up and moisturizing creams. Basically, HA helps to hold water in the skin.

 

Hyaluronic acid is a structural component of skin that creates volume and shape. Concentrations of hyaluronic acid throughout the body decline with age, causing undesirable changes in the skin.

Hyaluronan is a mucopolysaccharide in the epidermis responsible for maintaining overall hydration and elasticity of the skin (1). A decline in epidermal hyaluronan content occurs during aging, contributing to decreased turgidity and increased wrinkle formation (2). N-Acetyl-glucosamine is a precursor of hyaluronan, and niacinamide is an essential co-factor of hyaluronan synthesis.  In the current work, engineered human skin equivalent cultures were used to determine effects of topical N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide on hyaluronan and collagen expression, and for prediction of improved appearance of aging facial skin.   

 

IDEBENONE - http://la.tn-ol.com/ingredient_info.htm

Idebenone: An antioxidant naturally produced in your body called Co-Enzyme Q10, also known as Ubidecarenone, has been studied widely in relation to its anti-aging effects on the skin and within the body. Co-Enzyme Q10 works in the lipid (fatty) membranes of your body. It helps in the working of your cell mitochondria, which provide the energy you need to live and thrive.

Co-Enzyme Q10's antioxidant properties mean that it helps protect you from the free radicals that damage your skin and contribute to aging, not only of the skin, but of the brain and nervous system. Further studies have shown that making a slight change to Co-Enzyme Q10 makes it even more safe and effective for use on your skin and elsewhere. This improved form of Co-Enzyme Q10 is called Idebenone.

This means that Idebenone is superior to Co-Enzyme Q10 in preventing aging by protecting your DNA against damage from free radicals. Idebenone helps protect your body from the kinds of damage that contribute to aging, while also helping you to heal from damage that has already occurred.

 

Idebenone is one of the safest and most potent antioxidants known to man

Idebenone is a synthetic variant of one of life's most essential biochemicals, Coenzyme Q10 (Co Q10). Co Q10 is an important antioxidant component of the lipid (fatty) membranes that surround all cells, as well as the lipid membranes surrounding the various organelles ("little organs"), such as mitochondria and microsomes, inside cells.

Studies have shown that in such circumstances Idebenone prevents the free radical damage and maintains relatively normal cell ATP levels. In short, while Idebenone can effectively substitute for Co Q10's positive and life essential functions, it doesn't have Co Q10's free radical producing feature which occurs under hypoxic (low oxygen) conditions.

Anti-aging benefits

Idebenone, therefore, provides an anti-aging effect here in several ways. Unlike Co Q10, even under the low oxygen conditions that may occur periodically over a lifetime, Idebenone will serve as a powerful mitochondrial free radical quencher, lessening the ever-increasing mtDNA damage that occurs with age. Idebenone will work even better than Co Q10 within the electron transport chain to keep energy production high, even under hypoxic conditions. This is especially critical to brain and heart cells that may be rapidly damaged during low ATP production episodes that occur due to poor tissue oxygenation.

http://www.antiaging-systems.com/a2z/idebenone.htm

 

IRISH MOSS- Used externally, Irish Moss is a wonderful emollient that softens and soothes the skin and other exposed tissue. It eases sunburn, chapped skin, dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis, and rashes. It is used to prevent premature aging when used topically for smoothing wrinkles on the skin, and the herb promotes a bright, healthy glow.

http://www.genesis1nutrition.com/herbs/Irish_Moss.html

JOJOBA OIL- It has exceptional skin-softening properties, as well as the ability to minimize fine lines and wrinkles, promoting skin suppleness while assisting with the rejuvenation of the skin. It forms a non-greasy, non-tacky layer with exceptional trans-epidermal water control – thereby prevent dehydration of the skin and excessive water loss.

It helps to balance the production of sebum - your skin's own lubricating medium.

Jojoba oil is well tolerated by people with skin problems and does not aggravate acne, and also helps to break down sebum in plugged-up pores. In dermatological tests done by Christensen and Packman, it was shown that jojoba oil increases the skin's suppleness by 45% and after 8 hours the effect was still present.

It was also found that jojoba oil softens and smoothes the skin with fine line reduction and in one test done, 20 women's skin compliance increased with 37% after 30 minutes and remained so for a hour.

Continued use of jojoba oil results in reducing superficial facial lines. In a test, the reduction of lines were 26%, 18% and 11% after 1, 4 and 8 hours.

It has also been tested for hypoallergenic reactions and 2 out of 50 people with known allergic skin types showed a reaction, but this reaction cleared completely after 24 hours.

Tests at Michigan University showed that five of the most common skin bacteria plus certain skin fungi couldn't survive in jojoba oil.

Professor Zille of Port Elizabeth University carried out studies on the anti-bacterial effects of jojoba oil and the results were presented at a Coskem Congress held in Mintek, which found that jojoba oil destroys the bacteria staphylococcus and pseudomonas within 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Studies on jojoba oil at the Ben Gurion University in Israel have also shown that jojoba oil can help relieve the symptoms of psoriases.

In summation - jojoba's affinity to the skin makes it a superb moisturizing agent, reduces fine lines and increasing suppleness, with natural healing properties, which help with problem skin, including blackheads, pimples and acne.

It furthermore helps to prevent water loss and dehydration

 

Analysis of jojoba oil

The structure of jojoba oil closely resembles that of your own skin sebum, and because of this it has a natural affinity to the skin, and is readily absorbed without making the skin feel greasy or tacky nor does it clog the pores and helps to balance the production of sebum - your skin's own lubricating medium.A typical chemical analysis of jojoba oil includes palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, linolenic, and arachidic, eicosenoic, behenic, and erucic and lignoceric fatty acids. It contains myristic acid which also has an anti-inflammatory action. Jojoba oil has the ability to minimize fine lines and wrinkles, promoting skin suppleness while assisting with the rejuvenation of the skin and forms a non-greasy, non-tacky layer with exceptional trans-epidermal water control.

Jojoba oil is well tolerated by people with skin problems and does not aggravate acne, and also helps to break down sebum in plugged-up pores.

Dermatological tests on jojoba oil

In dermatological tests done, using jojoba oil, by Christensen and Packman, it was shown that jojoba oil increases the skin's suppleness by 45% and after 8 hours the effect was still present.It was also found that jojoba oil softens and smoothes the skin with fine line reduction. In one test 20 women's skin compliance increased with 37% after 30 minutes and remained for a hour.Continued use of jojoba oil results in reducing superficial facial lines.

Tests at Michigan University showed that five of the most common skin bacteria plus certain skin fungi couldn't survive in jojoba oil. Professor Zille of Port Elizabeth University carried out studies on the anti-bacterial effects of jojoba oil and the results were presented at a Coshem Congress held in Mintek, which found that jojoba oil destroys the bacteria staphylococcus and pseudomonas within 1 hour and 15 minutes.Studies on jojoba oil at the Ben Gurion University in Israel have shown that jojoba oil relieves the symptoms of psoriases.

So, not only does jojoba oil have amazing emollient and lubricating properties, but also include a range of therapeutic qualities as well.

http://soaperschoice.com/soapoils/jojoba.html

 

JUNIPER OIL- is very effective for acne, eczema, oily skin, weeping eczema, psoriasis and dandruff and alleviates inflammation.

Juniper oil can help calm the nerves, relieves anxiety, nervous tension and mental exhaustion. It is helpful when the prostate gland is enlarged and is used to help with the inability to pass urine, in cases of cystitis and kidney stones.

http://www.essentialoils.co.za/essential-oils/juniper-berry.htm

 

LEMON OIL- Cosmetic Uses
Lemon oil is astringent and detoxifying and is therefore great for blemishes associated with oily skin. Lemon oil also has rejuvenating properties and will brighten dull skin. Slices of fresh lemon placed upon the cheeks can lighten freckles.

http://www.auracacia.com/auracacia/aclearn/eo_lemon.html

LEMON (CITRUS LIMONUM)

is useful in helping to clear up acne, cleaning greasy skin and hair, as well as removing dead skin cells. Lemon oil eases painful cold sores, mouth ulcers, herpes and insect bites. Lemon oil helps to fight against infections, aids the digestive system, soothes headaches, migraines and muscular problems, and clears greasy skin and hair.

Lemon oil can be used in a base cream, in a lotion or as a mouthwash, for mouth ulcers and throat infections and for oily skin.

http://www.deancoleman.com/essentialref.htm

LEMONGRASS OIL- It has also been the subject of research published in the Phytotherapy Research Journal, where it was found to have powerful properties when applied topically to the skin, namely its anti-fungal action.

http://aromatherapy4u.wordpress.com/2007/08/28/lemongrass-essential-oil-rejuvenate-the-mind-and-clean-the-air/

Considered an antiseptic and astringent, essential oil of lemongrass is also used by some people to cleanse oily skin and help close pores. Some herbalists recommend mixing a few drops of lemongrass with a normal portion of mild shampoo to combat greasy hair. Lemongrass essential oil can also be used as a deodorant to curb perspiration.

http://deancoleman.wordpress.com/2007/08/21/lemongrass-uses-and-benefits/

Because it has great astringent properties, lemongrass oil helps clear up excessive oily skin which can cause acne outbreaks. In addition, lemongrass is effective as a skin toner.

 

because it naturally dilates the blood vessels, tightening pores and wrinkles.

http://aromatherapy.savvy-cafe.com/the-benefits-of-lemongrass-essential-oil-properties-2007-10-01/

 

LEMON VERBANA- It is an aromatic, astringent herb, rich in volatile oils, which has a calming effect, relieving spasms (especially of the digestive system) while reducing fever.

The oil contains neral and geranial, borneol, limonene, geraniol, nerol, terpineol, caryophyllene, curcumene, myrcenene, isovalerianic acid, the flavonoids apigenin, luteolin and 6-hydroxylated flavones with their methyl esters (eupafolin, hispidulin, eupatorin and salvigenin).

Externally, the herb can be used to treat acne, boils and cysts.

http://www.ageless.co.za/herb-lemon-verbena.htm

Lemon verbena has certain therapeutic properties and has been used for a variety of ailments including relief of digestive tract spasms, reduction of fever, strengthening of the nervous system, stress relief and as an anti-spasmodic and expectorant. Lemon verbena has the ability to help break down cellulite, as well as to exert a soothing, healing and toning effect on the skin.

http://www.associatedcontent.com/article/93739/healing_properties_of_lemon_verbena.html?cat=5

 

LECITHIN- Lecithin is found in most over the counter medications and cosmetics as it stops the ingredients from separating from each other. It also enhances absorption into the skin. Lecithin can be used topically to treat sunburns, minor skin irritations, scrapes, and to soften dry skin.

Lecithin is a building block in cell membranes as it works to protect cells from oxidation. It prevents the cells from hardening. Lecithin also makes up the majority of the protective sheaths surrounding the brain and nervous system. Lecithin acts as an emulsifier that helps the circulatory system transport fats and nutrients easily and smoothly. Lecithin helps prevent plaque and fat from sticking to the arterial walls. It has also been found to help lower LDL cholesterol (bad cholesterol) and increase levels of HDL cholesterol (good cholesterol).

Choline is one of the key ingredients (10-20%) in lecithin. Research has shown that choline has some very positive effects in the human body. Choline works to produce a natural chemical in the body called acetylcholine, which is a neurotransmitter that transmits messages from nerve cells to other cells in the body. This action has been found to have great potential in helping to treat or diminish the effects of dementia or Alzheimer’s disease.

The choline comprising lecithin also helps to promote healthy liver function as it prevents fat accumulation in the liver. Animal and human studies have revealed that diets deficient of choline or lecithin often resulted in cirrhosis and liver dysfunction. Choline works to prevent fatty deposits and blocks fibers from developing in the liver. This action is important because extra fat and liver fibers can lead to liver damage.

http://www.seacoastvitamins.com/topic.php?health=lethicin+benefits

 

LICORICE ROOT- Latin Name: Glycyrrhiza glabra
Pharmacopeial Name: Liquiritiae radix
Other Names: Liquorice, Gancao, Glycyrrhiza, sweet root, Yasti-madhu

Uses based on tradition or theory

The below uses are based on tradition or scientific theories. They often have not been thoroughly tested in humans, and safety and effectiveness have not always been proven.

Antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiparasitic, antispasmodic, antitumor, bacterial infections, burns, cancer, hyperpigmentation disorders, inflammatory skin disorders and skin disorders.

 

MSM- (Methylsulfonylmethane - a naturally occurring, organic sulfur-containing compound). It is needed by the body for healthy connective tissues and joint function, proper enzyme activity and hormone balance, along with the proper function of the immune system.

MSM acts as an analgesic and anti-inflammatory. It also inhibits muscle spasm and increases blood flow. MSM is critical to the formation of connective tissue of all types and improves growth and texture of nails and hair, and increases elasticity of the skin.  

.Because bio-nutritional sulfur plays such a major role in these healthy body functions and others, it was found that supplementation with MSM improves many health problems such as: allergies, asthma, emphysema, lung disfunction, arthritis, headaches, skin problems, stomach and digestive tract problems, circulation, cell osmosis and absorption.

 

Wrinkles: When the body replaces old skin cells, if there is a deficiency of MSM, the new cells are stiff and contribute to wrinkling. MSM supplementation helps the body replace bad cells with good, healthy, elastic cells. In time, wrinkles go away. Brown and black spots and skin tumors can be arrested and reversed as new cells replace the "insuffucient" cells.

Damaged Skin: It is the MSM in Aloe Vera leaves that sooths and repairs skin that has been cut, scraped, burned or damaged. The body then repairs the skin with the proper raw materials. MSM can be added to water, aloe vera gel, and other preparations for application to the skin. Best results are obtained when MSM is applied topically and taken internally.

http://www.stellalabs.com/INFO_Nutraceuticals.htm

 

NEROLI OIL- Traditionally, neroli oil was used not only to relieve tension and anxiety, but also in increase circulation and heal thread vein scars. Neroli oil increases circulation and stimulates new cell growth. It can prevent scarring and stretch marks. It is useful in treating skin conditions linked to emotions or stress, as it calms the emotions as well as the skin. Any type of skin can benefit from neroli oil, although it is particularly good for dry, irritated or sensitive skin. It regulates oiliness and minimizes enlarged pores. Neroli oil helps to clear acne and blemished skin, especially if the skin lacks moisture. With regular treatment, it can reduce the appearance of fragile or broken capillaries and varicose veins.

 

OAT POWDER-

Beta glucan is a soluble fibre found in the cell walls of oat kernels. As a natural polymer, beta glucan stimulates the immune system and is used in products designed to help heal wounds faster. As an ingredient in personal care products, beta glucan features the ability to induce cellular activities which lead to the restructuring of skin, resulting in a reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.

Some of its functional properties include:

• Stimulates collagen synthesis
• Provides protection against UVA/UVB damage
• Acts as a natural moisture barrier and film-forming agent
• Promotes cell renewal; anti-ageing
• Improves skin viscoelasticity
• Decreases hyperpigmentation due to photodamage
• Improves tensile hair strength and significantly reduces breakage caused by bleaching
• Seals, protects, and moisturizes the skin

Ceapro's scientists were the first in the world to demonstrate the penetration of beta glucan into the skin. Ceapro's proprietary extraction and formulation technologies produce both a liquid and a powder beta glucan for use in producing functional food, nutraceuticals, personal care products, and pharmaceuticals.

http://ceapro.com/beta.htm

 

PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5- (Syn-Coll, a Patented Wrinkle Peptide Technology)

 

 

                Day 0                                             DAY 84

Clinical trials have shown that the active principle of SYN^®-COLL is capable of reducing and changing the type and aspect of wrinkles that add years to your appearance. 

 

PALMAROSA OIL- This particular essential oil is fast becoming a firm favorite in essential oil therapy and aromatherapy, as it has excellent skin care properties and is also used to relieve stiff and sore muscles, while calming the mind and uplifting and invigorating the spirits and clearing muddled thinking.

Palmarosa oil moisturizes the skin, while balancing the hydration levels and stimulating cell regeneration. It balances production of sebum, to keep the skin supple and elastic and is valuable for use with acne, dermatitis, preventing scarring, rejuvenating and regenerating the skin, as well as fighting minor skin infections, sore tired feet and athlete's foot.

http://www.essentialoils.co.za/essential-oils/palmarosa.htm

 

PAPAIN- Papain is used to dissociate cells in the first step of cell culture preparations. A 10-minute treatment of small tissue pieces (less than 1 mm cubed) will allow papain to begin breaking down the extracellular matrix molecules holding the cells together. After 10 minutes, the tissue should be treated with a protease inhibitor solution to stop the protease action (if left untreated papain's activity will lead to complete lysis of the cells). The tissue must then be triturated (passed quickly up and down through a Pasteur pipette) in order to break up the pieces of tissue into a single cell suspension.

Papain

• A functional replacement for AHA's • Superior efficacy at lower use levels • Can be formulated at neutral pH • Virtually non-irritating for milder formulations

Immobilization of enzymes on high molecular weight polymers improves stability and overall performance of the enzyme, while providing a safe and effective system for the topical delivery of enzymes to the stratum corneum.

Papain represents the first application of this novel technology for the immobilization of a plant-derived enzyme onto natural or synthetic polymers. Papain is a proteolytic enzyme that specifically hydrolyses proteins such as collagen (a protein found in skin). Papain was developed as an alternative to AHA's (Alpha Hydroxy Acids). Exfoliation of dead and damaged skin cells from the skin's surface enhances skin smoothness and actually encourages the development of newer cells, resulting in smoother younger looking skin.

Papain is a natural proteolytic enzyme (Mol wt around 23,000 daltons) extracted from Carica papaya latex. The pH at which papain shows activity is quite broad (pH 4.0-8.0) with an optimum between pH 6.0-7.0. Papain “softens” and digests the protein components of the intercellular matrix. The drawback of papain in its natural state is its molecular size — it could potentially penetrate deeper into the skin than is desired.

Papain has been shown to be highly effective at promoting turnover of the stratum corneum. When applied on a daily basis to DHA-treated skin, 1% Papain was as effective as 8% and 10% lactic acid lotions at exfoliating the stratum corneum.

http://www.resq-labs.com/doctors_library/papain.htm

 

PEPHA TIGHT*-Study Conclusion- The study demonstrates that Pepha-Tight is very effective as skin tightener, since its tightening activity is 120% better than that of placebo. Pehpa-Tight acts immediately after the application and has a 33% better tightening effect compared to the control. The tightening effect is still perceptible 30 minutes after application. This shows that the effect can be attributed to the activity of Peph-Tight and is not just due to the placebo tightening effect of the gel formulation. Pepha Tight leaves a more pleasant skin feeling than the positive control and does not provoke visible effects of crumbling as the positive control does, according to the statement of panalists.

 

PEPTIDES

The biggest breakthrough in anti-aging medicine in years are protein –like substances in our bodies called peptides and neuropeptides.

Peptides are compounds consisting of two or more amino acids (the building blocks of proteins), chained together by what is called a peptide bond.

Neuropeptides are peptides released by neurons (brain cells) as intercellular messengers. Some neuropeptides function as neurotransmitters, and others function as hormones.

Peptides and neuropeptides, like many substances in our bodies can work both for and against us. They were first known as endorphins.

 

Peptides can:

 

-       increase production of collagen and elastin.

-       Repair scars and wrinkles

-       Increase circulation, resulting in breathtaking radiance and glow

-       Experience rapid wound repair

-       Develop a dewy, supple appearance to skin.

-       Decreased inflammation

-       Increased efficiency of metabolism, resulting in cellular repair.

-       Repair of the skin

 

Scientists now know that neuropeptides, neurotransmitters, and hormones have a vast cellular communications system. The brain signals the thymus, the thymus gland signals the skin and the skin talks back to the brain.  This trio controls every aspect of our bodies, using neuropeptides as their messengers.

 

Every messenger has a recipient for its message. These recipients are known as receptor sites.

The message delivered at the receptor site depends upon the particular neuropeptide, neurotransmitter, or hormone making the call.

 

The Jeneuvia Wrinkle and Age Reversing Treatments use three different peptides that work together to address some of the main causes of aging:

free-radical damage,

Changes in fat content of skin,

Changes in skin collagen,

Dehydration,

Inflammation,

Degradation of the elastin polypeptides and

Certain disorders in the packing of the lipid matrix of the skin.

 

The two primary wrinkle reducing peptides used in Baby Face Wrinkle and Age Reversing Treatment are Acetyl Octapeptide-3 (a wrinkle reducing Peptide trade which is approximately 30% more EFFECTIVE than its older parent peptide Argireline*) and PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5 (a wrinkle reducing Peptide ). These two peptides are among the newest generation of patented wrinkle reducing peptides. 

 

The peptide manufacturers recommended effective % volume of Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is 3%-10%. Clinical study results from the manufacturer were the results of a cream having 10% Acetyl Octapeptide-3. Clinical studies show that:

• Acetyl Octapeptide-3 reduces the depth of wrinkles on the face caused by the contraction of muscles of facial expression, especially deep lines in the forehead and around the eyes.

• Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is a safer, cheaper and milder alternative to Botulinum Toxin, topically targeting the same wrinkle formation mechanism in a very different way.

The peptide manufacturers recommended effective % volume of PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5 is 1%-2.5%. The Clinical study results from the manufacturer showing the before and after photos (84 day test) were the result of using a cream with 2.5% Palmitoyl Tripeptide -5.  Clinical studies show that:

• PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5 stimulates Collagen synthesis

• PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5 actively removes any type of wrinkle

• PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5 has in addition, skin firming and moisturizing properties
• PALMITOYL TRIPEPTIDE-5 has been clinically proven to be safe and effective.

A third peptide, silk, is used in the Triple Peptide Facial Serum. .  Silk helps to prevent and repair the aging effects of the sun.  Silk also reduces wrinkles by increasing skin hydration and stimulating natural collagen production. It tightens the skin and improves skin texture.

 

Jeneuvia Wrinkle and Age Reversing Treatment uses the above three peptides in combination to create a multiple faceted approach to addressing a fuller range of the causes of aging. Competitive Age reversing products normally use ONE peptide. Jeneuvia Wrinkle and Age Reversing Treatment uses THREE Peptides in a dosage of 25% volume.  Three peptides, not just one,  in volumes well above the volume necessary to produce positive results. This produces faster and more dramatic results.

 

Jeneuvia Wrinkle and Age Reversing Treatment represents a NEW and broader and natural approach to wrinkle and age reversing.  Clinical studies prove and support ingredient effectiveness.  Photos of people who have actually used Jeneuvia Wrinkle and Age Reversing Treatment demonstrates it effectiveness over a wide range of skin problems.  We guarantee results for you. Order today and take advantage of Wholesale prices plus our free product incentive with free shipping over $100. We’ve taken the risk out of the decision to try our products. There is nothing to loose except what time has done to your skin.

 

POMEGRANATE SEED OIL- Pomegranate seed oil is an extremely rich and nutritious oil, which may be used for internally or externally for its cosmetic and medicinal properties. Pomegranate seed extract and juice have been popular lately for their anti-oxidant properties, and pomegranate seed oil is proving to be even more beneficial. Not only does pomegranate seed oil contain high levels of anti-oxidants that fight free radicals and skin aging, but the oil is also a potent source of punicic and ellagic acids. Because of these properties, pomegranate seed oil is used to heal, protect, and moisturize dry, cracked, mature, and irritated skin, bring elasticity back to the skin, and for eczema and other skin problems. If pomegranate seed oil seems expensive, consider that over 200 pounds of fresh pomegranates are used to produce just one pound of pomegranate seed oil! The pomegranate seed oil offered by Mountain Rose Herbs is certified organic, cold-pressed, and is from Turkey. Pomegranate seed oils from the Mediterranean region are regarded as the most desirable because they contain higher concentrations of anti-oxidants and other beneficial properties than oil grown elsewhere due to the special climate, soil, and traditional farming methods of the Mediterranean.

Cosmetic Use
Pomegranate seed oil is commonly used in cosmetic products to revitalize dull or mature skin, assist with wrinkles, and to soothe minor skin irritations. Without moisture, wrinkles become more abundant and pronounced, the skin looks tight and lacks luster. Pomegranate seed oil adds moisture, has natural estrogenic properties, anti-oxidants, is anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, improves skin elasticity, and protects the skin. It provides relief from minor skin irritations and inflammation, including dry skin, eczema, psoriasis and sunburned skin. The conjugated fatty acids give it strong anti-inflammatory properties, which help to reduce swelling and ease muscular aches and pains.
Several recent studies, including one conducted by the University of Michigan Medical School (published in the February 2006 Journal of Ethnopharmacology), have shown that pomegranate seed oil stimulates keratinocyte proliferation, promoting regeneration and strengthening of the epidermis. This study compliments other recent studies, which have also shown the beneficial results of using pomegranate seed oil.

 

POMEGRANATE Extract- Pomegranate fruit extract modulates UV-B-mediated phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases and activation of nuclear factor kappa B in normal human epidermal keratinocytes paragraph sign.

Afaq F, Malik A, Syed D, Maes D, Matsui MS, Mukhtar H.

Department of Dermatology, University of Wisconsin, 1300 University Avenue, Madison, WI 53706, USA.

Excessive exposure of solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation, particularly its UV-B component, to humans causes many adverse effects that include erythema, hyperplasia, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppression, photoaging and skin cancer. In recent years, there is increasing use of botanical agents in skin care products. Pomegranate derived from the tree Punica granatum contains anthocyanins (such as delphinidin, cyanidin and pelargonidin) and hydrolyzable tannins (such as punicalin, pedunculagin, punicalagin, gallagic and ellagic acid esters of glucose) and possesses strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Recently, we have shown that pomegranate fruit extract (PFE) possesses antitumor promoting effects in a mouse model of chemical carcinogenesis. To begin to establish the effect of PFE for humans in this study, we determined its effect on UV-B-induced adverse effects in normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). We first assessed the effect of PFE on UV-B-mediated phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) pathway in NHEK. Immunoblot analysis demonstrated that the treatment of NHEK with PFE (10-40 microg/mL) for 24 h before UV-B (40 mJ/cm(2)) exposure dose dependently inhibited UV-B-mediated phosphorylation of ERKl/2, JNK1/2 and p38 protein. We also observed that PFE (20 microg/mL) inhibited UV-B-mediated phosphorylation of MAPK in a time-dependent manner. Furthermore, in dose- and time-dependent studies, we evaluated the effect of PFE on UV-B-mediated activation of nuclear factor kappa B (NF-kappaB) pathway. Using Western blot analysis, we found that PFE treatment of NHEK resulted in a dose- and time-dependent inhibition of UV-B-mediated degradation and phosphorylation of IkappaBalpha and activation of IKKalpha. Using immunoblot analysis, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay and electrophoretic mobility shift assay, we found that PFE treatment to NHEK resulted in a dose- and time-dependent inhibition of UV-B-mediated nuclear translocation and phosphorylation of NF-kappaB/p65 at Ser(536). Taken together, our data shows that PFE protects against the adverse effects of UV-B radiation by inhibiting UV-B-induced modulations of NF-kappaB and MAPK pathways and provides a molecular basis for the photochemopreventive effects of PFE.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/15493960?dopt=Abstract

 

Inhibitory effect of an ellagic acid-rich pomegranate extract on tyrosinase activity and ultraviolet-induced pigmentation.
Yoshimura M, Watanabe Y, Kasai K, Yamakoshi J, Koga T., Research and Development Division, Kikkoman Corporation, Noda City, Chiba, Japan.

"A pomegranate extract (PE) from the rind containing 90% ellagic acid was tested for its skin-whitening effect. PE showed inhibitory activity against mushroom tyrosinase in vitro, and the inhibition by the extract was comparable to that of arbutin, which is a known whitening agent. PE, when administered orally, also inhibited UV-induced skin pigmentation on the back of brownish guinea pigs. The intensity of the skin-whitening effect was similar between guinea pigs fed with PE and those fed with L-ascorbic acid. PE reduced the number of DOPA-positive melanocytes in the epidermis of UV-irradiated guinea pigs, but L-ascorbic acid did not. These results suggest that the skin-whitening effect of PE was probably due to inhibition of the proliferation of melanocytes and melanin synthesis by tyrosinase in melanocytes. PE, when taken orally, may be used as an effective whitening agent for the skin." Read more

http://www.bulkactives.com/abstracts/pomegranate.htm

 

PROGESTERONE -

 

PYCNOGENOL - The extract has four basic properties – it’s a powerful antioxidant, acts as a natural anti-inflammatory, selectively binds to collagen and elastin, and finally, it aids in the production of endothelial nitric oxide which helps to vasodilate blood vessels.

Pycnogenol represents a very potent cosmetic ingredient which offers a broad range of clinically substantiated health benefits:

        • Antioxidant potency

        • Improved skin health and collagen renewal

        • Anti-microbial activity

        • Anti-inflammatory activity

        • Anti-photoaging and sun-protection

 

 

ROSEHIP OIL- Rose Hip Oil Benefits

        • Intensive Skin Rehydrator 

        • Prevents Skin Damage 

        • Attenuates Scars 

        • Skin Moisturizer 

        • Nourishes Your Skin 

        • Restores Normal Skin Color

The positive action of Rose Hip Oil in helping to regenerate damaged skin tissues is due to its content of Trans-Retinoic Acids in a natural state as part of a complex system of unsaturated essential fatty acids. Therefore, its action is controlled and slowly released by nature, eliminating the risk of overdoses. For the same reason it has no side effects as other products containing trans-retinoic acids synthesized in the laboratory.

Scientific evidence has demonstrated the properties of Rose Hip Oil in reducing surgical and accidental dermal scars, the elimination of certain hyper pigmented spots and the lessening of wrinkles.

Rose Hip Oil Skin Rehydrator

The most effective way to benefit from Rose Hip Oil is by using it as a skin re-hydrator. As we age, oil glands diminish in size. People produce 10 times more oil at age 25 than at age 50. This condition is aggravated by climactic and environmental conditions such as dryness and air toxicity. Due to a lack of oil and depleted moisture, the skin starts to deteriorate. Rose Hip Oil, with its high absorbing level, penetrates the skin almost instantly to restore this needed moisture balance.

Rose Hip Oil Prevention Therapy

Most researchers agree that the best way to use Rose Hip Oil is as a preventative therapy to retard the appearance of skin-aging signs. They recommend starting this treatment at age 20, especially for those who burn easily or are exposed to sunlight for long periods of time. One application a day will suffice.

It is important to know that histological changes (the ones that can not be observable) precede clinical manifestation (the ones that can be observed) by at least a decade - this is why prevention is of paramount importance.

Rose Hip Oil Fights the Effects of PhotoAging

This condition represents the best opportunity for Rose Hip Oil. Aging, when related to skin, can be divided into two processes: intrinsic and photo-aging. Intrinsic refers to endogenous and genetic factors which are almost impossible to halt or to reverse. Photo-aging refers to the multiple adverse effects on all parts of the skin induced by excessive exposure to sun radiation. This condition is also called Dermotoheliosis and can be reversible.

Light skinned persons who tan poorly are at the greatest risk for photo-damage. The signs of photo-aging may appear as early as the third of fourth decade of life in persons with repeated sun exposure.

Photo-aging is characterized by wrinkled, yellowed, lax, rough, leathery, inelastic, and/or coarse skin with spotted hyper or hypo-pigmentation.

Rose Hip Oil is very effective in halting and even reversing the effects produced by the sun on the skin. Significant changes should be noticed after the third week of continuous application. In extreme cases of photo-aging, a more generous application should be used at night and during the day. It may take four months or more for the total disappearance of superficial wrinkles and significant dissipation of hyper-pigmented spots.

Rose Hip Oil Dissolves Surgical and Traumatic Dermal Scars

When used on surgical scars, our pure rosehip oil should be applied after the stitches have been removed and the wound is totally healed. After washing the area, apply the oil on dry skin with a soft massage. The effects will be noticeable after three to four months; skin will recover its elasticity and the color of the skin will improve significantly.

With old, traumatic dermal scars, it will take longer to see any effects and, again, it will depend on the age of the scar, its location and the age of the person. Two or more generous daily applications of rosehip oil are recommended, depending on the location of the scars and the age of the subject.

Moisturizing Effects of Rose Hip Oil

A must for everyone! Rose Hip Oil also directs moisture to parched areas without over- treating "normal" skin. Use for seasonal dryness, or after sport, to restore softness and tone. May be used day and night.

Source of topical retinoic acid (vitamin A) in a natural bio-available form

Retinoic acid works by binding to specific cell receptors of skin after a topical application. After the cell receptors have been activated, there is a modification in gene expression, subsequent protein synthesis, and cell growth and differentiation. Thus, the epidermal cell is modified increasing the regeneration of damaged skin and the capacity to produce new tissue as a consequence of an acceleration of the differentiation of the keratin.

Though many dermatologists and plastic surgeons, along with cosmetic and reconstructive surgeons, carry Rosehip Oil skin care products in their offices and recommend it for skin care in their practice, we realize that not everyone visits a dermatologist regularly for skin care, nor undergoes cosmetic or reconstructive surgery and skin care during their lifetime. So, we have chosen this medium to reach not only those people with skin care disorders that may be helped by Rose Hip Oil skin care, but also the person who desires to maintain their normal, healthy skin with daily care.

Rose Hip Oil produces biological activity in the skin and mucous membranes of the mouth and nose when applied directly to it. Rose Hip Oil stimulates metabolic changes in the skin by accelerating normal cellular growth in the epidermis (skin) without inducing any side effects. Properly administered, Rose Hip Oil will diminish fine lines and heal your skin. Your future promises to be more beautiful!

http://www.abateit.com/rosehipoilbenefits.htm

 

ROSEMARY OIL- Latin Name: Rosmarinus officinalis
Pharmacopeial Name: Rosmarini folium
Other Names: garden rosemary

ESCOP lists its external use as adjuvant therapy in rheumatic conditions, peripheral circulatory disorders, promotion of wound healing, and as a mild antiseptic (ESCOP, 1997). The German Standard License for rosemary externally it is used in supportive treatment for rheumatism of the muscles and joints (Braun et al., 1997; Wichtl and Bisset, 1994).

 

 

 SAFFLOWER OIL - Oleic (Carthamus tinctoorius): Safflower oil is from safflower plant that is native to Mediterranean countries. It is obtained by pressing or solvent extraction. Safflower has one of the highest linoleic acid (70%) contents of all oils. A mono-unsaturated oil similar to Olive Oil. Extremely low in saturated fats. Also commonly used in cosmetics and body oils. Oleic Safflower Oil is produced by using a hybrid Safflower Seed that has an inherent greater oleic fatty acid, than linoleic. Since oleic is much less subject to oxidation than the linoleic acid, this oil is much more stable. The moisture content of human skin is proportional to the content of essential unsaturated fatty acids. Wonderfully moisturizing. Safflower Oil is recommended for use in skin care products and massage. It's shelf life is up to one year.

http://www.aromatherapygoddess.com/ingredient_glossary.html

skin. Safflower o

SANDALWOOD OIL- The health benefits of Sandal Wood Essential Oil can be attributed to its properties like anti septic, anti inflammatory, anti phlogistic, anti spasmodic, astringent, cicatrisant, carminative, diuretic, disinfectant, emollient, expectorant, hypotensive, memory booster, sedative and tonic.

For ages, Sandal has reserved as place of dignity and priority in many civilizations and religions of the world, especially in Hindu Religion, where it is considered holy and indispensable in all the social and religious rituals and ceremonies, right from the birth of an individual till his death. In every step, sandal is required. It is offered to the Gods and Goddesses, used in decorating babies in their anniversaries, used in marriages to decorate brides and bridegrooms, mixed with the flowers and other offerings, used to embalm bodies and foreheads which is a common practice among people of many communities in India and also burnt with the pyre while cremating dead-bodies.

Sandal Oil and paste of Sandal is used in medicines, skin and beauty treatments and numerous industrial products including mouth fresheners, edibles, incense sticks, room fresheners, deodorants, perfumes, soaps, lotions, creams and others. It has some really remarkable medicinal properties.

• Anti Septic: Essential Oil of Sandal Wood is very good as an anti septic. It is safe for both internal and external applications. It ingested, it helps protect internal wounds and ulcers from infections. Similarly, when applied on skin, it protects wounds, sores, boils, pimples etc. from infections and from getting septic.
• Anti Inflammatory: Both Sandal Wood paste and its essential oil are very effective as anti inflammatory agents. They have a nice cooling effect and gives relief from all types of inflammations in brain, digestive system, nervous system, circulatory system, excretory system etc. resulting from infections, fever, side effects of antibiotics, poisoning, insect bites, wounds etc. Sandal Wood Essential Oil is particularly beneficial in case of nervous and circulatory inflammations.
• Anti Phlogistic: Just as it has been discussed above, Sandal Wood Oil has Anti Phlogistic properties and gives relief from inflammations resulting from fever and viral infections.
• Anti Spasmodic: Being a relaxant and sedative in nature, this oil works great against spasm too. It relaxes nerves, muscles and blood vessels and hence ends spasm or contraction. Thus it is helpful in treating problems associated with spasm, such as cramps, aches, coughs etc.
• Astringent: Although very mild, still this oil has some astringent properties which induce contraction in gums, muscles and skin. This proves beneficial in terms of strengthening hold of gums on teeth, strengthening of muscles, tightening of skin etc.
• Cicatrisant: The essential oil of Sandal Wood soothes skin and helps fading away of scars, spots etc. It has been an old practice to use paste of sandal wood as a skin pack. The same effect can be obtained from this essential oil. This oil is now extensively used in skin-care soaps, lotions and creams.
• Carminative: The Essential Oil of Sandal Wood, being relaxant in nature, induces relaxation in the intestines and abdominal muscles, thereby facilitating removal of gases. It does not also let gases form.
• Diuretic: Due to its relaxing and anti inflammatory nature, it soothes inflammations in the urinary system and induces relaxation in it, thereby promoting easy passage of urine. It also increases frequency and quantity of urination. This helps a lot treating the infections and inflammations in the urinary system.
• Disinfectant: It is the disinfectant property of Sandal Wood Essential Oil that justifies it’s such a wide use in the religious ceremonies and cosmetics. Its fragrance keeps away microbes and small insects and that is why it is extensively used in incense sticks, sprays, fumigants and evaporators to disinfect the whole surrounding. Moreover, this oil can be mixed with bathing water or other lotions or oils to apply on skin and wounds and ensure their protection from infections. This oil can also be safely taken with milk to cure internal infections, such as those in throat, oesophagus, stomach, intestines, excretory tracts etc.
• Emollient: Sandal Oil soothes skin, relieves it from inflammations and irritations, cures infections on it and keeps it fresh and cool.
• Expectorant: Sandal Wood Essential Oil behaves as an expectorant and is particularly effective in treating coughs. It also fights viral infection which causes cough & cold, flu, mumps etc.
• Hypotensive: This is a very useful property of Sandal Wood Essential Oil. It can be taken with milk or even water to reduce blood pressure in patients suffering from high blood pressure. The paste of Sandal Wood has the same effect.
• Memory Booster: It improves memory and induces concentration. It keeps the brain cool and relaxed and saves from undue stress and anxiety.
• Sedative: This oil sedates inflammations, anxiety, fear, stress, restlessness etc. and induces relaxation, calmness, concentration, inner vision, positive thoughts etc.
• Tonic: This oil can be very good health tonic for all, especially for growing children. It can be safely given to them. Since it is soothing on stomach and digestive system, circulatory system and nervous system, it helps these system function in harmony and without any
• Other Benefits: Deodorant,

http://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/essential-oils/health-benefits-of-sandal-wood-essential-oil.html

 

 

 

SHEA BUTTER (West African)-

A thorough study has been published in a French Ph. D. thesis in pharmacy by F. Renard. In it, 2 clinical studies are described:

 

SHEA BUTTER Skin aging treatment

A clinical study has been performed on 30 volunteers aged 29 to 82. Shea butter was applied by a daily massage as a balm for 4 to 8 months.

 Various skin conditions have shown major improvements:

        • epidermis aspect: in a few weeks, the rough aspect of a dull - grayish complexion was eliminated, giving way to a smoother, clearer skin.

        • combating skin “thinning” for better skin texture: a regenerating effect is observed probably related to the action of the unsaponifiables that are known to reactivate collagen synthesis.

        • wrinkles from photoaging due to prolonged sun exposure are visibly diminished in half of the volunteers.

        • Shea butter proves to be a valuable active for diminishing various aging signs.

 

Protecting and regenerating treatment

Another clinical study was performed for studying dry, delicate or aging skin. 49 volunteers applied twice a day either 15% or pure shea butter. Both products lead to similar results:

 

A cicatrizing action was observed in 70% of cases concerning hand dermatitis, sun burns and scars.

A reduction in wrinkles and an improvement of skin suppleness was obtained for 75% of the volunteers.

Shea butter demonstrates regenerating properties that target it towards photoaging prevention.

Other tests have been performed for demonstrating additional benefits:

 

Moisturizing properties

A cream containing 5% shea butter and a placebo cream are applied at the beginning of the experiment (Poelman & al.) and reapplied on a daily basis on the volar forearm of 10 volunteers. The results are the average of 10 measures of skin conductimetry differences between treated and untreated skin.

Short-term moisturization is observed, it peaks after 1 hour and persists for 8 hours. For all subjects, a daily application maintains a very good moisturization of the superficial layers of the skin.

Anti-inflammation properties

Shea butter is traditionally used for alleviating rheumatism, which suggest an anti-inflammatory activity. This has been substantiated (Tella) in a study of severe nasal congestion. Shea butter is tested on 33 volunteers against conventional nasal drops containing xylomethazoline (as recommended in the British Pharmacopoeia), a placebo and a control.

 

Nasal congestion is created by an edema that can be relieved by two mechanisms: a vasoconstrictor or an anti-inflammatory. Only the second mechanism applies for Shea butter that has never demonstrated any vasoconstricting activity.

Efficient release of active ingredients  

This study (Konning) has been conducted on ointments and demonstrates that Shea butter releases faster salicylic acid crystals. 75m crystals of salicylic acid are incorporated in the ointment (75 % shea butter –15% arachid oil and 10% paraffin). A petri dish is filled with agar containing ferric chloride. A hole is cut at the center and filled with the ointment. When salicylic acid diffuses it gives a color reaction and the color zone diameter provides an easy measurement of salicylic acid release.

Incorporating active ingredients in Shea butter may prove a valuable alternative for ensuring their efficient release on the skin.
   

 What is shea butter?

 

It is a slightly ivory granulated butter consisting mostly of triglycerides (which include a fair amount of linoleic acid) and unsaponifiables: mostly: Karisterols (a spinasterol – D⁷ stigmastenol) – Parkeol – Lupeol – Butyrospermol- Katitene and cinnamic esters.

Shea butter helps to:

           -   protect skin against climate and UV aggressions

           -   prevent wrinkle formation

            -   soothe irritated and chapped skin

            -   moisturize the epidermis

            -   improve the release of polar active ingredients

 

Due to its unique blend of unsaponifiables (with UV-B absorbing properties), and essential fatty acid triglycerides, Shea butter is a prime active ingredient for Cosmetics. It leaves a pleasant smooth feeling to the skin while improving its softness. Shea butter is particularly recommended in oil free formulations, it has a good spreadability and quick rub-in properties. 

http://www.sheainstitute.com/about-shea-butter/what-is-shea-butter.html

 

SILK PROTEIN / peptide- http://www.sumitomo.gr.jp/english/discoveries/special/76_01.html

A group of products that rivals edible silk in popularity is one applied to the skin, a "silk powder cosmetics" for healthier skin. Silk cosmetics are not a new idea—they have been around for almost 30 years—but early products capitalized on silk's luxury image and its actual health benefits were not taken very seriously. But today, with progress in silk pulverization technology, the benefits can expect to match the product image. This is because of research findings that the proteins comprised in silk have moisture-retentive and ultraviolet ray-blocking properties.

Says Director Morio Katsuno of Silk Science Research Institute Dainihon Raw Silk Foundation, "We have discovered that a protein called sericin contained in silk in large quantities inhibits the effects of enzymes that is responsible for skin blemishes and wrinkles. This protein also dissolves well in water, which helps to moisturize the skin. Another plus is that it has ultraviolet (UV) ray-blocking properties, which is good because the UVs can induce skin cancer. One reason for this could be that cocoons are designed to protect silkworms." Nature's unknown latent powers are truly remarkable.

 

 

bob averill <newsilk@together.net>

 

Silk is a peptide.  Silk is 96.9% protein.  Silk is 18 amino acids,.  Silk contains collagen. When used topically, silk is a natural moisturizer and provides relief from sunburn, windburn, household burns and blocks UV radiation.  Silk helps to prevent and repair the aging effects of the sun.  Silk also reduces wrinkles by increasing skin hydration and stimulating natural collagen production. It tightens the skin and improves skin texture and quality-or in other words skin health.  Older skin tends to loosen as the underlying “cushion” is reduced.  Collagen is a factor.

Nature is in no hurry and silk is a natural ingredient. Different skin types have different  improvement times.  On average, for all benefits, silk shows positive and usually maximum results in 90 days or less.

 

  Aceytl Octapeptide-3 wrinkle reducing peptide - One of the most striking signs of skin aging is increased wrinkling of the face. This can occur naturally over time and is identified by certain biochemical, histological and physiological changes that are enhanced by environmental exposure. There are other secondary factors that can cause characteristic folds, furrows and creases of the face. These include the constant pull of gravity, frequent and constant positional pressure of the skin of the face (e.g. during sleep) or repeated facial movements caused by the contraction of the muscles of facial expression. In any case and independently of the ultimate physiological pathway, the molecular mechanism involved in face aging is directly related to changes in the conformation of the collagen triple helix, degradation of the elastin polypeptides and certain disorder in the packing of the lipidic matrix of the skin. 

It has been clearly established that these conformational changes and the disturbance of the perfect packing of the lipid matrix can be significantly avoided by modulating muscle contraction

Muscles are contracted when they receive neurotransmitter released from inside a vesicle. The SNARE (SNAP REceptor) complex is essential for this neurotransmitter release at the synapsis (A. Ferrer Montiel et al, The Journal of Biological Chemistry, 1997, 272, 2634-2638). It is a ternary complex formed by the proteins VAMP, Syntaxin and SNAP­25 (SyNaptosomal Associated Protein). This complex is like a cellular hook which captures vesicles and fuses them with the membrane for the release of neurotransmitter.

SNAP-8 is a mimic of the N-terminal end of SNAP-25 which competes with SNAP-25 for a position in the SNARE complex, thereby modulating its formation. If the SNARE complex is slightly destabilized, the vesicle can not release neurotransmitters efficiently and therefore muscle contraction is attenuated, preventing the formation of lines and wrinkles

 

SOAP (LIQUID GLYCERINE) -

 

SODIUM ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE-

Vitamin C demonstrates proven effects on the skin. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate penetrates the skin and is converted to free vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate is antioxidant, it liberates Vitamin C in the skin.

 

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris.

J. Klock*, H. Ikeno†, K. Ohmori‡, T. Nishikawa§, J. Vollhardt* and V. Schehlmann*

*R & D, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd, Basel, Switzerland , †Ikeno Clinic of Dermatology and Plastic Surgery, Tokyo, Japan , ‡Plastic Surgery, Tokyo, Metropolitan Police Hospital, Tokyo, Japan and §Medicine and Nursing, Hokkaido University of Education, Sapporo, Japan

Correspondence to Jochen Klock, R & D Personal Care, DSM Nutritional Products Ltd, PO Box 3255, Bldg. 205/305B, 4002 Basel, Switzerland. Tel.: +41-61-6884457; fax: +41-61-6873317; e-mail: jochen.klock@dsm.com

Presented at the 23rd IFSCC Congress 2004 in Orlando, FL, USA

Acne vulgaris is the most common inflammatory skin disorder and jeopardizes seriously the facial impression of a person. Development of acne involves a complex relation among several causes. Treatment and prevention success can be archived by affecting the main contributors positively like Proprionibacterium acnes or lipid oxidation leading to inflammatory reactions and follicular keratinization. Vitamin C tends to break down in cosmetic formulations resulting in a brownish discoloration. Sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) represents a stable precursor of vitamin C that ensures a constant delivery of vitamin C into the skin. We were able to show that 1% SAP has a strong antimicrobial effect with a log reduction of 5 after 8 h on P. acnes in a time-kill study. Further on in a human in vivo study with 20 subjects an SAP O/W formulation significantly prevents the UVA-induced sebum oxidation up to 40%. Finally, we performed an open in vivo study with 60 subjects with a 5% SAP lotion over 12 weeks. The efficacy ranked as excellent and good of SAP was 76.9%, which was superior compared with a widely prescribed acne treatment. In conclusion, these data show that SAP is efficient in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris. SAP can be used in a non-antibiotic and effective treatment or co-treatment of acne with no side effects, which makes it particularly attractive for cosmetic purposes.

 

sweet almond oil- In a study it was concluded that topical almond oil is capable of preventing the structural damage caused by UV irradiation and it was also found useful in decelerating the photoaging process

STUDY

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation has been implicated in photoaging and various types of skin carcinomas. Although the human skin has evolved several defense mechanisms to survive the insults of actinic damage like keratinization, melanin pigmentation, etc., it is still subjected to the harmful effects of sunlight. AIMS: In this study, the role of almond oil in reducing the degradative changes induced in skin upon exposure to UV radiation was investigated. METHODS: Mice were divided in four groups of 20 animals. Group I was the control group. Group II was negative control, which received almond oil treatment alone. Group III was exposed to UV radiation only and Group IV received both UV treatment and almond oil treatment. Visible skin grading assessed the changes based on a rating scale, biochemical tests (glutathione estimation and lipid peroxidation), and histopathologic studies. RESULTS: Upon exposure of mice to UV radiation, it was found that pronounced visible skin changes were seen after 12 weeks of exposure. The results of the biochemical tests, glutathione estimation, and lipid peroxidation showed that almond oil reduced the effect of UV light-induced photoaging on the skin. Histopathologic studies also indicated a photoprotective effect of almond oil on the skin after UV exposure. CONCLUSIONS: It was concluded that topical almond oil is capable of preventing the structural damage caused by UV irradiation and it was also found useful in decelerating the photoaging process.

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17348990

 

SWEET ORANGE OIL- The health benefits of Orange Essential Oil can be attributed to its properties like anti inflammatory, anti depressant, anti spasmodic, anti septic, aphrodisiac, carminative, diuretic, tonic, sedative and cholagogue.

• Anti Inflammatory: It gives quick and effective relief from inflammations, internal or external and caused by any reason such as over intake of spices, fever, infections, side effects of antibiotics, gas, ingestion of toxic substances, narcotics etc.
• Anti Depressant: The very smell of it reminds you of the happy moments and brings happy thoughts to mind. That is why it is very much used in aromatherapy. This gives a happy, relaxed feeling and works as a mood lifter.
• Anti Spasmodic: Spasm can give rise to a lot of problems such as continuous coughs, convulsions, cramps in muscles and extreme diarrhea. To avoid them, spasm must be cured early. This can be done with the help of Orange Essential Oil which relaxes the muscular and nervous spasm and gives relief from the problems discussed above.
• Aphrodisiac: It has mild aphrodisiac properties, if not strong. Systematic and regular use can cure problems such as frigidity, erectile problems, impotence, loss of interest in sex etc.
• Anti Septic: Wherever there is a cut or abrasion, there is the fear of the wound getting septic bacterial infection. More so when it is from an iron object. The worry is doubled as there remains a chance of it might getting infected by tetanus germs. Essential Oil of Orange might help us avoid both septic and tetanus as it inhibits microbial growth and disinfects the wounds.
• Carminative: Being a carminative means being an agent that helps removal of gases from the intestines. Gas, forming in intestines and pushing upwards, can be very troublesome. Gas, being lighter, moves upwards and punches the internal organs, gives chest pains, indigestion and uneasiness, raises blood pressure, can risk your heart and gives acute stomach aches. Essential Oil of Orange can help you a lot in this respect. It relaxes the abdominal and anal muscles and let the gases escape. Further, it does not let gases form too. Orange Oil is very good for those who are suffering from chronic gas trouble.
• Diuretic: You got rid of gases. Now it’s your turn to get rid of the toxins. Again, the remedy is the same. The good old Orange Oil can here too. It promotes urination to make the toxins like uric acid, bile, excess salts, pollutants and excess water thrown out of the body with urine. Urination increases appetite and promotes digestion. It contributes towards losing fats and is good for the heart too.
• Tonic: The relation of a tonic to the body is quite similar to overhauling and servicing to vehicle. A tonic tones up every system functioning in the body, keeps the metabolic system in proper shape, gives strength and boosts immunity.
• Sedative: When you need to cool down after a bad day at the office or suffering from inflammation, you need a sedative to let you relax. The artificial sedatives or drugs available in the market are mostly tranquilizers based on narcotics such as opium and synthetic. These, in the long run, do immense damage to heart and internal organs. Better to follow a natural one like this Orange Oil. It gives relief from anxiety, anger, depression and inflammations.
• Cholagogue: It promotes secretions from all glands, exocrine or endocrine. Thus it is seen to promote menstruations, flow of milk from breasts, digestive juices and bile, hormones and enzymes.
• Other Benefits: It serves as a detoxifier, boosts immunity, treats constipation and dyspepsia and is very good for maintaining a healthy, smooth and glamorous skin. It also helps cure acne and dermatitis.

http://www.organicfacts.net/health-benefits/essential-oils/health-benefits-of-orange-essential-oil.html

 

 Palmytoyl Tripeptide-5 is a patented innovative approach that is based on Pentapharm’s many years of experience in synthesizing peptides for the pharmaceutical industry. SYN^®-COLL is a small peptide with a unique sequence to mimic the human body’s own mechanism to produce collagen via TGF-β.

• Palmytoyl Tripeptide-5 stimulates Collagen synthesis

• Palmytoyl Tripeptide-5 actively removes any type of wrinkle
• Palmytoyl Tripeptide-5 has in addition, skin firming and moisturizing properties
• Palmytoyl Tripeptide-5 has been clinically proven to be safe and effective.

TEA TREE OIL- Tea tree oil has some interesting research demonstrating it to be an effective antimicrobial agent. The Journal of Applied Microbiology (January 2000, pages 170–175) stated that "The essential oil of Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) exhibits broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity. Its mode of action against the Gram-negative bacterium Escherichia coli AG100, the Gram-positive bacterium Staphylococcus aureus NCTC 8325, and the yeast Candida albicans has been investigated using a range of methods... . The ability of tea tree oil to disrupt the permeability barrier of cell membrane structures and the accompanying loss of chemiosmotic control is the most likely source of its lethal action at minimum inhibitory levels." In addition, "In a randomized, placebo-controlled pilot study of tea tree oil in the treatment of herpes cold sores, tea tree oil was found to have similar degree of activity as 5% acyclovir" (Source: Journal of Antimicrobial Chemotherapy, May 2001, page 450). For acne there is also some credible published information showing it to be effective as a topical disinfectant for killing the bacteria that can cause pimples (Source: Letters in Applied Microbiology, October 1995, pages 242–245). However, the crux of the matter for tea tree oil is: How much is needed to have an effect? The Medical Journal of Australia (October 1990, pages 455–458) compared the efficacy of tea tree oil to the efficacy of benzoyl peroxide for the treatment of acne. A study of 119 patients using 5% tea tree oil in a gel base versus 5% benzoyl peroxide lotion was discussed. There were 61 in the benzoyl peroxide group and 58 in the tea tree oil group. The conclusion was that "both treatments were effective in reducing the number of inflamed lesions throughout the trial, with a significantly better result for benzoyl peroxide when compared to the tea tree oil. Skin oiliness was lessened significantly in the benzoyl peroxide group versus the tea tree oil group." However, while the reduction of breakouts was greater for the benzoyl peroxide group, the side effects of dryness, stinging, and burning were also greater—"79% of the benzoyl peroxide group versus 49% of the tea tree oil group."

titanium dioxide (UVB)- Titanium dioxide is a common physical sunblock; it protects

in the UV range from 290-340 nm. It protects against UVB radiation fully, but only protects against short UVA radiation (320-340 nm). Titanium dioxide offers no protection from the long UVA rays (340-400 nm) recently proven to cause photoaging changes in human skin. Using titanium dioxide alone, skin turns white or bluish at SPF7

 

THYME OIL- anti septic, bactericidal, kills bacteria, heals scars & after marks,

http://www.organicfacts.net/organic-oils/natural-essential-oils/list-of-essential-oils.html

 

UVA URSI (bearberry)- Overview

 

VALERIAN ROOT- Latin Name: Valeriana officinalis

VITAMIN COMPLEX

Vitamins Vitamin A (Retinyl Palmitate), Vitamin B3 (Niacinimide), Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) and N-Acetyl Glucosamine. are the major ingredients that make up Wallsburg farms Vitamin Complex, a major age reversing component of our Baby Face Wrinkle and Age-Reversing Treatment.  Clinical studies supporting their individual effectiveness as age reversing ingredients is presented below:

 

VITAMIN A (RETINYL PALMITATE)
Vitamin A is the dominant vitamin of the skin because it has a fundamental role in the control of normal activities of skin cells. Vitamin A is of great importance in controlling normal activities of the DNA of the nucleus of the cell as well as the mitochondria. Current scientific research work is uncovering the complex means by which DNA maintains the normal activities of skin cells.

Vitamin A is normally found in the skin predominantly as retinyl palmitate, which is an ester of vitamin A. The ester is the most stable form of vitamin A.  Retinyl palmitate is also a constituent of some topically-applied skin care products. After its absorption into the skin, retinyl palmitate is converted to retinol, and ultimately to retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A present in Retin-A). 

As early as 1935 it was pointed out that vitamin A deficiency probably developed in all areas that exposed to the sun. The reason for this is that vitamin A is extremely sensitive to sunlight and particularly to ultra violet light A (UVA). With the development of modern sunscreens we are not able to give sufficient protection of the skin from ultra violet A and so vitamin A is still damaged by exposure to light, even when a person is wearing a sun protection factor of 30 or 40.

In the 1930's it was postulated that skin exposed to sunlight aged faster than skin that was protected from sunlight. By 1955 it was discovered that the application of vitamin A as retinyl palmitate to aged skin rejuvenates the skin to a small degree. The test period at that time was a mere six weeks. Sigmund Berg showed that people who suffered bad sunburn could be improved by oral administration of vitamin A in high dosage. Today it is well recognised that the rejuvenation of skin can be achieved by applying vitamin A to the skin, but when one reads about the various types of vitamin A one may be confused as to which type of vitamin A to use on the skin…

Vitamin A should also be replaced every evening as a topical application to the skin to try and address the daily loss of vitamin A. Because we cannot prevent the damage to the vitamin A in the skin, it is essential to replace the vitamin A each day so that we do not gradually develop the signs of photoageing which are really also the signs of vitamin A deficiency of the skin.

 

By Dr. Des Fernandeshttp://www.environ.co.za/contents/articles/varieties_of_vitamin_a.htm

 

VITAMIN B3 (NIACINIMIDE)

• Topical application of N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide stimulated hyaluronan synthesis and elasticity of the skin.

• N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide increases in collagen (procollagen-1)

• N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide reduced the appearance of facial fine lines and wrinkles, particularly in the eye area of the face

• N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide produced a reduction in melanin and an increase in collagen -- a key structural protein in skin.

• N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide produced improvement in hyperpigmentation and skin tone and a decrease in the size of age spots

• N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide significantly reduced facial hyperpigmentation in women aged 40-60 years,

• Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin.

• Topical application of niacinamide increases ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the skin, it prevent the skin from losing water content and it stimulates micro-circulation in the dermis.

• Niacinamide was shown in one small study to be more effective than petrolatum (Vaseline) for reducing water loss from skin and increasing its hydration levels.

• In ageing skin, topical application of niacinamide improves the surface structure, smoothes out wrinkles and inhibits photocarcinogenesis.  
 

 

Clinical Facial Study The clinical study was an 8-week double-blinded facial study of 35 to 60 year old women with moderate-severe fine lines and wrinkles.  Facial moisturizer containing 2% N-acetyl glucosamine and 4% niacinamide was applied twice daily in a split face design, and compared to silicone-in-water vehicle control.  At baseline, 4 and 8 weeks, digital facial images were obtained and analyzed for degree of facial fine lines and wrinkles, by expert grading. •In in vitro human skin cultures, topical application of N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide stimulated hyaluronan synthesis.

•These treatments also led to an increase in collagen (procollagen-1) expression.

•Twice daily use of a facial moisturizer containing a combination of 2% N-acetyl glucosamine and 4% niacinamide for 4 to 8 weeks by women with moderate to severe fine and wrinkles reduced the appearance of facial fine lines and wrinkles, particularly in the eye area of the face.

•The in vitro hyaluronan results suggest that this effacement of fine lines and wrinkles is due at least in part to improved hydration of the skin.

The panel reviewed data from three studies involving the n-acetyl glucosamine /niacinamide formulation. Tissue studies showed a reduction in melanin and an increase in collagen -- a key structural protein in skin. Three double-blinded placebo-controlled clinical studies involving more than 200 subjects, including a study supervised by Dr. Kimball, showed improvement in hyperpigmentation and skin tone and a decrease in the size of age spots. The research is set to be presented in July at the "Academy '06" meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), and was first presented at the AAD annual meeting in March 2006.

 

WHISTLER, B.C. -- A combination of 2% N-acetylglucosamine and 4% niacinamide significantly reduced facial hyperpigmentation in women aged 40-60 years, Dr. Alexa Kimball said at a dermatology symposium.

"About a decade's worth of our perception of age can be explained by pigmentation," said Dr. Kimball, director of the clinical unit for research trials in skin at Massachusetts General Hospital and Brigham and Women's Hospital in Boston. Dr. Kimball also serves as a consultant to Procter and Gamble, which funded the study

http://www.accessmylibrary.com/coms2/summary_0286-28984701_ITM

 

Topical N-Acetyl Glucosamine and Niacinamide Increases Hyaluronan

R. Osborne, Ph.D., L. A. Mullins, B.S. and L. R. Robinson, Ph.D. The Procter & Gamble Company, Cincinnati, Ohio USA

Introduction –Hyaluronan (related to Hyaluronic Acid) is a mucopolysaccharide in the epidermis responsible for maintaining overall hydration and elasticity of the skin (1). A decline in epidermal hyaluronan content occurs during aging, contributing to decreased turgidity and increased wrinkle formation (2). N-Acetyl-glucosamine is a precursor of hyaluronan, and niacinamide is an essential co-factor of hyaluronan synthesis.  In the current work, engineered human skin equivalent cultures were used to determine effects of topical N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide on hyaluronan and collagen expression, and for prediction of improved appearance of aging facial skin.   

Objective

·To evaluate the effects of n-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide on expression of hyaluronan and collagen in human skin cell cultures in vitro. · To confirm the in vitro responses via improved appearance of fine lines and wrinkles on facial skin in vivo.

Hyaluronan and Collagen In Vitro Following topical treatment of skin equivalents with N-acetyl glucosamine, hyaluronan increased significantly and dose-responsively by up to 30% relative to vehicle control (Fig. 2). In addition to its role in skin hydration, hyaluronan, as a structural component of skin, plays a role in skin remodeling and wound healing, including contributing to the formation of a scaffolding along which fibroblasts can migrate (3).  In response to N-acetyl-glucosamine, procollagen 1 increased dramatically and significantly in the skin equivalent models (Fig. 3).  Niacinamide at 4% increased hyaluronan and procollagen 1 by 12 and 40%, respectively. Fine Line and Wrinkle Improvements Women using a facial moisturizer containing a combination of 2% N-acetyl glucosamine and 4% niacinamide exhibited improvements in fine lines and wrinkles as compared to a vehicle product, with the greatest improvement at the earliest time point measured (4 weeks; Fig. 4), especially in the under-eye area of the face (Fig. 5).

Conclusion

•In in vitro human skin cultures, topical application of N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide stimulated hyaluronan synthesis.

•These treatments also led to an increase in collagen (procollagen-1) expression.

•Twice daily use of a facial moisturizer containing a combination of 2% N-acetyl glucosamine and 4% niacinamide for 4 to 8 weeks by women with moderate to severe fine and wrinkles reduced the appearance of facial fine lines and wrinkles, particularly in the eye area of the face.

•The in vitro hyaluronan results suggest that this effacement of fine lines and wrinkles is due at least in part to improved hydration of the skin.

References 1.Sayo T, Sakai S, Inoue S.  Synergistic effect of N-acetylglucosamine and retinoids on hyaluronan production in human keratinocytes.  Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2004; 17: 77-83. 2.Ghersetich I, Lotti T, Campanile G et al.  Hyaluronic acid in cutaneous aging.  Int J Dermatol 1994; 33: 119-22. 3.Weindl G, Schaller M, Schafer-Korting M, Korting HC.  Hyaluronic acid in the treatment and prevention of skin diseases: molecular, biological, pharmaceutical and clinical aspects.  Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2004; 17: 207-13.

http://www.pgbeautyscience.com/topical-n-acetyl-glucosamine-and-niacinamide-increase-hyaluronan.html

Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin.
( Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science, Volume 26, Number 5, October 2004 , pp. 231-238 Authors: Bissett, D. L.; Miyamoto, K.; Sun, P.; Li, J.; Berge, C. A.)

 

Topical application of niacinamide increases ceramide and free fatty acid levels in the skin, it prevent the skin from losing water content and it stimulates micro-circulation in the dermis.
( Source: British Journal of Dermatology, September 2000, pages 524?531; and Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, April 2004, page 88)

 

Niacinamide was shown in one small study to be more effective than petrolatum (Vaseline) for reducing water loss from skin and increasing its hydration levels.
( Source: International Journal of Dermatology, March 2005, pages 197-202)

 

Topical application of niacinamide has a stabilizing effect on epidermal barrier function, seen as a reduction in transepidermal water loss and an improvement in the moisture content of the horny layer. Niacinamide leads to an increase in protein synthesis (e.g. keratin), has a stimulating effect on ceramide synthesis, speeds up the differentiation of keratinocytes, and raises intracellular NADP levels. In ageing skin, topical application of niacinamide improves the surface structure, smoothes out wrinkles and inhibits photocarcinogenesis. 
( Source: W Gehring (2004) Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 3 (2), 88–93. )

VITAMIN C (ASCORBIC ACID)

Anti Aging Benefits of Vitamin C

How does topical Vitamin C compare and benefit the skin?

• Active in the skin up to 3 days (72 hours) after application.

• Anti-inflammatory response in the skin, prevents redness and inflammation even after sun   exposure

• Topical application delivers 20 times more vitamin C than oral intake

• Free radical scavenger

• Maintains cellular integrity

• Vitamin C kills bacteria, natural wound healer, cuts inflammation – all related to acne.

• Basically has two functions by

                 Stimulating collagen

                        and elastin

Collagen is the skin's firmness and elastin is the ability to retain its original shape.

Vitamin C has the potential to enhance the density of dermal papillae, perhaps through the mechanism of angiogenesis. Topical vitamin C may have therapeutical effects for partial corrections of the regressive structural changes associated with the aging process".
( Source: Topically applied vitamin C increases the density of dermal papillae in aged human skin, Kirsten Sauermann, Sören Jaspers, Urte Koop, and Horst Wenck)

 

Vitamin C protects the cells of the skin ...

As a reducing agent, vitamin C can scavenge and destroy aggressive oxidizing agents and radicals in the skin: hydroperoxides and lipoperoxides, aggressors that are formed in the skin as a result of a wide range of environmental influences in everyday life, but particularly, intensive exposure to sunlight.

 

Vitamin C is capable of suppressing the pigmentation of the skin and decomposing melanin. In this way, it reduces the brown coloration of the skin, prevents the formation of freckles, birthmarks and senile keratosis, and can be used with good effect to whiten dark skin, or areas of dark skin.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate can be incorporated to provide the entire spectrum of positive effects of vitamin C. Preparations can be produced which, for example, protect against sunburn and the everyday effects of the environment, which whiten the skin, and which combat freckles or senile keratosis

• Stability of ascorbyl phosphates in water:

- H. Takashima, H. Nomura, Y. Imai, H. Mima, Amer. Perfumer a. Cosmetics, 86, 29-36 (1971)

• Release of Vitamin C in the skin:

- H. Takashima, H. Nomura, Y. Imai, H. Mima, Amer.Perfumer a. Cosmetics, 86, 29-36 (1971)

- T. Sakamoto, M. Egawa, M. Tanaka, 19th IFSCC Congress, 2, 5-17 (1996)

• Protection against hydroxy radicals and lipoperoxides in the skin:

- T. Sakamoto, M. Egawa, M. Tanaka, 19th IFSCC

Congress, 2, 5-17 (1996)

- G.E. Erlemann: Vitamine in der Kosmetik; Seifen, Fette, Wachse, 110, 181-ff (1984)

• Protection against UV-related cell damage:

- T. Sakamoto, M. Egawa, M. Tanaka, 19th IFSCC

Congress, 2, 5-17 (1996)

- T. Kanatate et all; Cell. Biol. Res: 41, 561-567

(1996)

- S. Kobayashi, M. Takehana, S. Itoh; Photochem.

Photobiol. 64, 224-228 (1996)

• Promotion of collagen formation:

- R.I. Hata, H. Senoo, J. Cell. Physiol. 138, 8-16

(1989)

- M. Ono, Experimental Cell Research, 187, 309-

314 (1990)

- Geesin et al., Skin Pharmacol. 6, 65-71 (1993)

• Whitening of the skin with vitamin C derivatives:- Cosmetics a. Toiletries, 109, 100-102 (1994)

- R.Sacher, Technik u. Wissenschaft, 1, 122-123(1995)- H. Takashima, H. Nomura, Y. Imai, H. Mima, Amer.Perfumer a. Cosmetics, 86, 29-36 (1971)- T. Sakamoto, M. Egawa, M. Tanaka, 19th IFSCCCongress, 2, 5-17 (1996)